And more Sahara Desert

Ok. Stop start...stop start.

Ended up in Dakhla, the last town in Morocco. Someone can work it out, but I have done some 5, 000 km so far. Well over 2, 200 km in Morocco. And a good 1, 200 km in the desert region.

My priorities have always been water, fuel, bike and then me. So far I have had little trouble finding what I need. Although the Arabic and French language barrier, has caused me some frustration. And a lot of arm waving.

Well behind me now are your McDonald's and super markets. Replaced by tiny roller shutter garages, come shops. The shop keeper has a counter and his stock is shelved behind him. You point and wave and he gets his calculator out. And doubles the price of everything !!! I've negotiated over the cost of houses and cars. But never toothpaste and bottles of water. !!

Plus side, due to nesseaty, I can order and count in French now. I just had 25 Derham returned to me in a shop. As a direct result of my new found Frenchness. ( Next is blockading , eating cheese and making love to my neighbours wife. ). :))))

It's very isolating here. Very, very few foreigners. Only the odd UN vehicle and Kite Boarders. I have met with the only ex pats that live here. They have all cut a slice of alternative life style. Live very cheeply, in a good climate.  The high winds keeping everyone cool. ( And me riding at 30 degrees ).

I've been in Dakhla longer than I had liked.  I always found when back packing, that I liked places. And would start to grow roots. That's happened here, to a degree. Dakhla is relaxed, has full facilities and worth a visit. Certainly the best city I've been to in Morocco. And yet, if you Google it. It will tell you that the area is disputed terrortry. And very dangerous. For me it was 8/10 and will gladly return.

Below are some photos. Some of me off roading, practicing for what's ahead. I kept within eye sight of the one tarmac road. I still don't have a map or GPS. Not recommended, but certainly gives it an edge. Will be buying maps in The Gambia. But first I have Mauritania. ( Hotter than the Sahara. ) And Senegal. ( More French than Paris. )

Couple of photos of how the fishermen climb down the cliffs to the sea. Properly mental. Climb back up to the desert. And live in home made rock shelters.

Anyway.  All good here. Really up for the next chapter. No wi fi for several days now. And it's definitely a double dose of " brave pill ", for the next bit.

I am risking everything to draw attention to the plight of our wounded servicemen. I don't agree with politicians sending serviceman to war. Them returning without arms and legs. And the government providing absolutely nothing !!!! No British Tax payers money for you.

All whilst the same politicians give away £12 BILLION to countries around the world !! Non of whom have done a single thing for Britain. Our politicians even give our taxes away to China, who has a Space Programme.  And India, which is a nuclear power. !!!!!

So. Let's make a difference here. Sort it out. Make a donation by clicking the Help for Heroes logo. Top right. Donate whatever you think is just. They will all add up. So far £3, 200.

Please don't wait for someone else.

Will

Sahara Desert Part Duex

Salada madi cum

Through Agidir and Guelim. And now in Tan Tan Plage. Chipping away at the 1, 200 km of desert region. Met Tash, an English girl, who just married a local guy. Who works at the camp site. Between them I sorted out some bread and fuel. And got the low down on black market petrol from Anglers.

The desert road is almost totally straight, so not too exciting. Two days ago I put my i pod on, whilst riding, for the first time. I'm sure I look like the Sheik of Cool, as I ride along, singing and boping in my helmet and enduro suit. Infact, entertainment is when I see some camels !! And they seem to look at me all confused.

Back in the north of Morocco, I'd see Police at most roundabouts. But they always waved me through. Now, there are very official check points. With a mixture of Morrocan Army and then Police. All armed. (This region has had issues in the past.)

They now always pull me over and ask for my passport. I need to print off and fill in something called a 'Ficshe'. (Might not be spelt correctly. )
It's a bit like a questionnaire for a dating show. What's your name, where do you come from, where are you going. And do you prefer brunette or blondes ? That sort of thing.

The desert is still a mixture of rock and sand. Not quite the Lawrence of Arabia set, you might expect. Temperatures and humidity are all tolerable. But I have noticed the bike is rusting at an unseen before rate! ! Any exposed metal and it rusts. I think the Sahara is like a microwave ruster. :(  so I have baby wiped the bike. Honestly, I have.  To remove all oil, I have a slight leak, so the sand can't stick.

I need to Google " cado " or " cadu". I'm guessing it means " can I have your cash buddy ". As ever kid I pass says it to me !!! Lol.

Presently being entertained by a four year lad. Who is pointing at bits of my bike. Wanting to know what it's called in English.  Nice just to be ' talking ' to someone.

Going for it tomorrow. Making good head way towards the Mauritania border.

Not much to report. Apart from sun, sand and dating questioners.

Find me on Facebook . London to Johannesburg. "Like" and get updates and more sarcasm.

Will

The Sahara Desert

Saladi cum

After I wild camped by the cliff face. I continued down the coastal back road. Slightly disappointed with my progress so far, I made sure I was up for 8 am. But by the time I do the daily chores. Making something to eat, pack all my kit away. Re distrubute weight on my bike and get my enduro kit on, its 10 am.

But hot to trot and cranking up those 12 wild horses, I was determined to have a good day. Over 1, 400 kms till the Mauritania border. Most of that being the Sahara Desert.

No mad moments for a change. Great views of the coast, along with climbing up the side of the Atlas mountain range. Expecting to wild camp, I pulled over for a 5 minutes break. Where I met a Morrocan 'Adventure' party, returning from the desert. A 2 minute chat and I was on my way to a cheap hotel in Essouira.. Cost me 70 dr. ( £5.50). I needed to print some locations off of petrol stations and places to get water. So that dropped in nicely.

Ended up having 36 hrs there. A walled, coastal town. Several hundred years old. (See pics). Didn't speak to a sole. But was great to walk about, in non bike kit. And know all my stuff was safely locked in a room. ( Camping, wild or not. That you do not have. )

The landscape is rapidly changing. The earth is getting lighter and more rocky. The temperature, as yet, has not increased markedly.

Having stayed in Essouira, and had enough of being over charged for everything, I moved on. And guess what I met along a lonely road ???
Nothing!!!! No, camels..............and then lots of nothing. Seemed ok with me. :))

The people are friendly, but if there is a wiff of tourists, prices go to what ever they can get. £1 for a 10p packet of rolling papers !!!!! £5.50 for a bottle of Tango, a chocolate bar and some biscuits !!!! Never having my pants down again.

Bit tiered, no compo rations now. Just the water I carry ( 13 litres), a local large Luncheon meat tin and local bread. Supermarkets are long way behind me.

I have a set plan for getting to the border. From here on in. The Police have passport check points everywhere. But i should be at the Mauritania border soon enough. Where a 4 km long mine field awaits me. The morrocan sides Customs barrier lifts, after appropriate bribes are paid. And its 4 kms of desert, ,mined either side. With just " Mines ' on signs to guide you. It seems im a fair bit ahead of the two ' Overlanders ', Gary and John.Who I left on Tuesday or Wednesday. And I will get to the border before them. Lol Talk about the Hare and the Tortoise. They've heard it's a total nightmare from Mauritania to Senegal.  We shall see.

Anyway, feeling fit. Just started riding with my I pod on. I might be slow, but I ride for hours. Lol.

You can find updates on Facebook too. Search " London to Johannesburg ". Press " like ".

Looking forward to seeing us break the £3, 000 mark. I've put everything in the pot. Can you just put twenty or thirty quid ?? Click the Help for Heroes logo. Top right.

Will

Back on my own

Monday I had headed south from Rabat, along the R322, towards Casablanca. Stopping at L' Ocean Camping, near .Mohomedinia. Where I had arranged to meet up with John and Gary, who I'd met getting their Visas at the Mauritanian Embassy too.

Nice camp site, all be it a bit run down. I wasn't too bothered. It had electric to charge my bits up, ( oy yoy ).And free wi fi.Half a dozen folk were there, mainly in desert vehicles.  Either coming from or going to the Sahara. So it was a great opportunity to get information, for what's ahead. Which is now part of my routine. Whenever possible.  And to speak English to someone. And not just be talking to myself and singing in my helmet. ;)

The lads had to run about doing admin. Knowing what that's like and having to pack your tent and kit away. I offered to be on tent watch. Whist John went to the one and only KTM dealer. And Gary sorted his Visa issue out, ,back in Rabat.

The Islamic festival of the lamb, is in full swing. All you see are sheep cramed in car boots,  straddled over mopeds and on the back of carts. They skin them and basically bbq parts. I think i was offered a meal today, at the road side. A guy had three ram heads bbq ing away. But I gave him a fag instead, playing it on the safe side. Gutted, I wish I could speak Arabic. And knew how to say " well done please " ! I can now say " how much " and also, " thats bloody expensive".

Parted company today with John and Gary. They are off to Marakesh. Meeting the rest of their group. So I am riding down the coastal back road. And loving it.

I'm heading to the gateway to the Sahara Desert, some 600 km south of me now. The road is fairly poor and so are the locals. Been through some nice villages and always seem to be getting saluted !!

Just before sunset I pulled up at this cliff. Looked pretty cool. Wasnt sure were I was going to sleep. As I write this and save it to draft. I can tell you, I have no idea of my exact location! ! Pitch, pitch dark, middle of nowhere. Tent is fifteen foot from a small cliff , but out of site of the small road.

Going to actually buy a map of Morocco tomorrow. ( Might be a good idea. As i dont have gps either.)That's if I can find one. Petrol stations here sell....er just petrol !!

Loving rural Morocco and the crack I have with the people.  Even if I haven't got a clue what they are saying.

Check the photos out. As i approach the Sahara Desert I have had another re jig of the kit. My 10 litre water container, on the rear of the bike, is now full. I was riding with just 5 litres in it. But have rebalanced the bike, by moving some kit to the other side. Also, I am riding wearing my Camel Bak. ( Holds 3 liters and tastes crap. As I didn't wash it out properly. )

It's going to get even hoter and hoter from here on in. With only very rare wi fi moments. Which I need,to get my confirmation email from the Senegal Embassy.( Country after Mauritania).

Back on my mobile. So sorry its text then photos. Check them out. And can you make a donation by clicking my Help for Heroes logo. Top right.

Will