Wifi is so rare it's barely warm. :)
Complete with the usual high quality map, I left Bobo and headed to the Ghana border. Ghana is not on my absolute direct route. But, the capital Accra, is a good place to get visa's. The infamous Angolan ' Willy Wonka Golden Ticket ' of the visa world, possibly being obtained there.
Some of these countries I'm going to and through, are the most beurocratic, corrupt and difficult to get into.
Still wearing essence de la Malaria, I made my way to Pa. Stomach still dodgy and ears still slightly deaf.
Between Bobo Dioulasso and Ougadougou. ( pronounced. .waga doo goo.) I came across a sign. ' Air de parking '. ( Anyone who has been to France, will be familiar with this. )
Now remember that Burkina Faso is a very, very poor country. It survives only due to aid. Outside of the two main cities, you will find the population getting around via flip flops and old bicycles.
So what do you reckon I came across 160 km away from any town. In the middle of absolutely nowhere ???
A massive car park !!!! You could land a plan on it ! Air de parking. Same as you would have off a busy motorway in France. That's, ' busy ' motorway !! I'd read about this place before. And there it was. In all it's illogical and costly glory. Because as your people starve, thats what you'd do!! Aid at it's finest. Made a video. Will upload on Facebook page, London to Johannesburg. Click " like " and you'll get the updates.
I finally found Pa and stayed at possibly the worst aubergine in Africa. Still feeling bad,with the left overs of malaria. I thought it better to be near people, instead of wild camping. As a ' just incase '. The room looked like it had been deficated in. And smeared on the walls. The bed was broken and flees were hoping out of the pillow. I now have an infected eye, as a result. O joy. ( made a video and will stick it on fb page. London to Johannesburg. )
The shower was the usual hole in the floor and bucket of water. Which a lady fetched in a large silver bowl from the well. Returning with it balanced on her head. The toilet also the usual hole in the ground, flys everywhere. And a plastic kettle by it's side, with water in it. A hum....you can work it out.
I couldn't find anything to eat. Which is an ongoing problem for me. So fried one of my valued Corned Beef tins.
The locals were surprised and respectful. Saying "bon soir', putting their right hand out. Whilst holding the forearm with the left. ' presenting ' the hand.
The French language barrier, both frustrates and isolates me. Food and solitude, are my personal challenges in all this. The rest is within range.
The owner of the auberge did ask me a question though. Part English and part French. ....are you ready.?
Said totally seriously. ..." can you come back and take my son to L'anglataire ". Wow !! Bob smacked. Even calling his wife, who had said son, strapped to her back with a sheet. He was about two years old. I explained " impossibla...visa ". Goes to show you the desperation. And lack of understanding of the outside world.
Single with a black child. Explain that one to society. " well I was on my bike......".
On the Ghana backpacker website, it states you can get a visa at the border for 100Ghana Ceti.about £28.ish. I cleared Burkina Faso Duan and Police. No bribes and only smiles and sqwarky noises,as I explained how far I'd come.
Over to Ghana at Hamile frontier. Short of it ? A Lassier Passer is possible at the border. Despite the official line being you need a Carnet de Passage. Cost about £10. I risked it, as everything on the Internet said it was impossible. Back to ' anything can happen in Africa. ' ...and probably will.
Over to Ghana Immigration. £28 for a visa ??? No . Try $200 to be paid in US $$$. And yes,exchanged at their rate. Why would you have US $$ for Ghana ??? So I simply said " goodbye ". Mutch to their surprise. And high tailed it back to Burkina Faso.
81 km I was told to Leo. Another border crossing. The road,red with dust. Green vegetation either side. Totally rural,with the odd village. Round huts, straw roofs. Wildebeest , chickens and donkey's.
Quick one. I love the off road riding, it's real freedom. The bike luggage frame on the other hand, does not !! So much weigh on the rear,it keeps breaking the welds, as I hit the bumps and troughs. The exhaust now scraping on the tyre. ( which I've subsequently fixed. )
So,knackered and into Leo. A frontier town. Shacks and huts as shops.No street lights. And a uncomfortable feel to it. Through the whole B.F. Police and Customs routine. 18 km of no mans land. And into Ghana.
This time I complained about the visa con. But it was now $150 !!! After an hour of negotiations. I simply said " Ghana has priced it's self out of the market. Togo is 10,00 cfa.(£12). To get a visa.Im going to go there. Get visa's at Lome the capital. Goodbye."
The big Customs boss was shocked. It was now gone 8 pm, pitch black. No street lights for the return journey. ( mainly as there's no street.) It's all off road....humm in the pitch dark. No chance of coming off of course :))))
Into auberge number 2 in 24 hrs. Into another disgusting room. Where as I entered, a rat was leaving. ....
Will do a blog tomorrow. .
