Rear suspension has broken. Help !!

I'm some 600 km inside Mali now. I found a hotel complex in Bamako, the Capital, that let me camp outside. It has security and wi fi. What a result !!!

On route to Mali: Wild camping !!Low quality food every day, i am afriad.

The past 1,300 km from the Gambia to here have been hard going at times. The road sometimes being perfect. And clearly brand new. But other times,completely destroyed. Off road or dust track is  one thing. But huge,deep pot holes. Sometimes the size of car,connected together by a slither of tarmac has broken the seal on my rear mono shock absorber.

frame and the shocker have been damaged !!

Result being the rear mudguard is banging on the tyre,at the slightest bump. To counter,I have been stood up on the foot pegs for most of the past 360 odd kms. Not easy when you have lost 8 or 9 kg in weight.( over a stone in English. Or 18 lbs ish ) It wasn't like I had a lot available to loose in the first place. :)))

I have two requests folks. Firstly, this Challenge, despite mine and others best efforts, has only raised €100 in the past two weeks. £4100 in total.  Christian Walking Around Britain, in aid of homeless servicemen, has raised over £100,000. Difference being his charity donate page went viral on Facebook. Due to folks ' SHARING 'it. And most importantly, his challenge is constantly in the public eye,via the papers. He's even had international interest from TV broadcasters.

This isn't about him and it isn't about me. It's about helping men and women, who have served our country and returned in a wheelchair. Their arms and legs blown off by IED's. And over 70% of our servicemen who have lost an arm,get turned down for Incapacity Benefit !!! As if its their left arm and they are right handed.The governments paid for doctors, say they can still work and do not qualify! !!!

Can you please help me ? A.) Make a donation via the Help for Heroes logo top right. B) SHARE this blog on Facebook and Twitter.

As I mentioned before, my suspension is broken and my rear tyre is now worn. Due to the bottoming out. The mudguard rubbing against the tyre.

With the bribes and over charging of everything, my budget is 100% going to run out, way before Johannesburg.

Can you help me ?

The further and longer I go. The more charity donations we recieve. If you like what I am doing,please make a donation via THE TEAM FUEL BUTTON.

Ive had £85 donated. But the cost of shipping a rear shock absorber and tyre, plus fitting,will be more like £300. And I simply can't cover the cost.  Plus Visas, Passavonts,bribes for the next ten odd countries.

Please don't just hope someone else will do it. Because they will be thinking the same.

Im stuck here in war torn Mali. With my fingers crossed.

Below are some photos I took for you all along the way.This guy looked happy to see me.....not !!! Came over as the kids were showing me their school books. Kids so far, have been lovely. Heart melting stuff.

Super No1 make this bike. Check his tank !

Kids suround me; proudly shows me his school book

I am only ever one incident away from major trouble: personal protection:

on the roqd i hqve q knife under my tank bag:

You can see the where the tyre is bottoming out on the fender :

And into Mali. A country in civil war.

136 km the road stone said to Kidra, the frontier town. It sits on the river that separates eastern Senegal and Mali.

Up at 7 am and saw the sun rising. Had the usual bread,fried luncheon meat and water. Packed my kit away and tried out my phone camera, attached to the left indicator. ( Both of my head cams have now broken. The Braun,literally shaking apart inside. Due to the ' road '.)

The rest of my journey to Kidra was a road from hell. Constant stream of pot holes. Just everywhere. The bike taking another major pounding.

It was hard,hard work. Very hot and humid,particularly in mid day. But by 1 pm.i was at the border town.

 

Guess where .......river Nijer seperates the two countries

Familiar with the border routine now. And intrigued to see if the Senegal Gaustapo would notice I'd not been into Customs at Karang. And didn't have a Passavont for the bike.

Into see the Police,no bribe and stamped out the country. Into Mafia Customs.......They looked at my ' Passavont ', and I said " plus dou joules.  Karang ". And.... .cha pooow. Stamped my passport and I was out of Senegal. Result. Didn't buy another Visa or Passavont. Score evened.

Over the river and into see Mali police. Stamp in passport and over to Mali Customs. 5000 CFA later,I had my Passavont and was finished. No bribes and no hassle.

 

 

 

 

First thing i see inside Mali.....blown up or just an accident:

Starting to see a lot of these..........can you guess ........ant hills !!!!

One big down side,my rear shock absorber has gone. The rear mudguard hitting the tyre over the slightest bump. This is a very expensive part in the UK. And I very much doubt possible to get here in Mali. (I only ever see Chinese mopeds.) Plus the tyre is now worn,with the rubbing. The Suzuki Van Vans rear wheel size is its Akilease Heal. It's unique and Suzuki don't sell this bike here. So I will have to courier one from the UK.

Without a solution, this challenge will be over. But.. .but...We are not done yet. I am now 400 km inside Mali. Writing this two days in arrears. I have 300 km to Bamako. The capital. Where I will try and fix it. I don't have the money and you know they will triple the cost.

One solution is to retro fit a Chinese moped shocker on the near side. To take most of the weight. Watch this space. I've got about £1500 to my name. And with a dozen more Visas and Passavont s to pay for. Fuel and food,I'm getting desperate for a bit of charity myself. If you can help,please donate to the Team Fuel Button.

Lots of accidents on the road today. Helped a tiped over bike,come pick up. Stopped for an artic lorry that had rolled over. And saw another truck all burnt out.

 

Rest of the village came out and we got him right way up!

I've been trying to get a few good pics. I went to a watering hole. No,not a Pub. Chance would be a good thing. Saw loads of animals and met their herdsman. They looked at me like I was from a different planet.lol nice moment.  :)))

Watering hole...no Fosters! Wouldnt be surprised if i was the first white guy thed met!

I've been wild camping here in Mali. But do plan to get a cheap room in Bamako. As it's been ten days since I had a shower. ( The Mandinka tribes idea of a shower, was a tap and a cup.) So I'm pretty smelly basicly.

Im sat under a tree,by the road side. Middle of nowhere. Yet four mopeds have past,each one offering to help.But its the usual fried Luncheon meat and biscuits for me:Lost 9 kg easy so far .Washed down with a glass of tea:Nice.

 

 

They live as we did 2,000 years ago. Mud huts,usually round with straw roofs. Protected by sticks in the ground. They wave when I toot the horn. But absolutely gorp at me at the same time. I think I've heard them shout " M J ". Or similar. 

Can you spot the Cell tower.........villagers tapping into free elctricity

I've found it really hard to find St vendors. So been buying biscuits and frying the luncheon meat I bought back in The Gambia. Definitely lost quite a lot of weight. Feel slightly weaker, but nothing too bad.

Ok. Im heading to Bamako. Be there in the morning. I have no internet. I can text but can't receive them. Will publish blogs if I can find wi fi anywhere.My kit is slowly but surely,falling apart.Latest to break is my Head Camera.It was actually the replacement !!! It litterally shook apart from the road.

Huge fingers crossed I can somehow fix the bike. I don't want this to be the end.

Braun camera in bits

Flint coming out of the ground,thought it was a grave yard at first.

Can you see the village huts ...

......and behind me ...

Setting the ground on fire........no idea....

animals at the watering hole

surprised heardsman in the middle of Mali savvana

another feast.......

fire...birds dropping out of the sky..

Life is well, enjoying the challenge. But ridding with these bike issues is very hard going. Remember,this bike is designed to pop to the shops. Its loaded to the guns.And is now damaged.

Will

Pot holes. Begging. And two tanks of fuel..

....two packets of crisps and a pint of lager.

What a day.Up at 6 am,as agreed with the Senegal Gerndarme. As I was finishing packing my kit away,the teachers started to arrive. One lady offering me " Cafe two bob " . ( Remember,  "two bob "was the price of a slave. And means " white man".)
Cafe two bob is great. It's not just coffee,in fact, I've no idea what's in it. But it comes only in black, ironically, and is just the business. Have one if you can.

Off I went,filling up at the petrol station outside. 700 CFA a litre. I'd got 13 lt of water from the Gambia. I was all set and really wanted to push it, and get some good kms under my belt.

I still don't have a map or GPS,but I do Google the route prior and draw my own. Writing the village names down and sliding the list into a pouch on my enduro suit sleave.

Heading north on a dust track,the one I'd come in on. I really tried to push it, going a tad faster than I'd done some 8 days prior. Finally coming to the N1 and heading East towards Mali. Following the old railway line. That runs from Dakar. Senegal.  To Bamako in Mali.

 

Im guessing, as I'm in my tent right now. That Banjul to Bamako is 1300 km ish. And Karang to the Mali border at Kidra, about 650 /700 km.

knife under tank bag. personal protection.

Here in Senegal, when ever I stop for a water come fag break.Come,let the bike cool down.  The kids are over me like a rash. They are dirty and shoe less. But unlike the poorer Gambians. They aren't smilling and calling out " two bob ",with a smile on their face. They are begging and pushy. What can I do ??Im not exactly living the high life either ! Dinner is served.

another lovely meal

What annoys,is all these African leaders live in plush palaces. Even when the country has no income.Have armoured Range Rovers...by the fleet. All bought with ' aid' money. Whilst their people can't afford food or flip flops. Wonder how many Range Rovers and Landcruisers the 12 ££££ billion the British government gives away bought ??

The road was pretty good at first. But the last 70 km it was pot holes connected to pot holes. The only other vehicles on the road being trucks from Mali. Had to swerve from one side to the other. Just to get through. It truly looks like a Secound World War Luftwaffer runway.After a night bombing raid by the RAF. I've been swerving in and out of them. But sometimes hitting them.Its just unavailable.  They are deep. My rear suspension has taken a pounding today. My front forks both have leaks too.

I've used two tanks of fuel. My main tank is a whopping 5.7 lt and reserve is 1,8 lt. I seem to get 200 km to a main tank. So I must have done over 400 km today. I will check when I get internet again.

I'm presently 30 km north of Tambacoumba. I'm wild camping again tonight. I found a some low ground with good cover. I've just had my fried luncheon meat,bread and water. And all is well. My body feels like it's been in the gym all day. A proper,proper work out. My eyes are heavy as. Will sleep well tonight, all be it with one eye open.

My view as i woke up, wild camping. Senegal bush.

Looking forward to getting to Mali tomorrow. I'm about 150 km away. ( They have the old school road side stone. With next town and distance on them.

Mali is in a bloody civil war at the moment. With armed Muslim extremists,imposing strict Sharia Law upon all. The French army is in their at the moment.

The Mandinka tribe gave me a big "rambo" knife. As they call it. Which, whilst riding, is under my tank bag. And in my right pocket when off .

If you like what I am doing. Please donate by clicking the Help for Heroes logo. If you want to help me; click the Team Fuel button. Im down to £1,500 and will run out before Johannesburg. 

 

  Hot; hot, hot work this all day.Locals so far, have been friendly.But i wont take my eye off the security ball!

Speak soon

Will

Banjul. The Gambia back to Senegal .

Banjul Port........no ferry timings.Just when its full.!!

I arrived at Banjul port for 5 pm. As I'd been told the ferry was some time after that. But there weren't ever any timings. They simply came and went as they could.  I asked if the ferry was owned by British Rail. But it seemed to confuse the poor Gambian lad. :))

It was about 8 pm by the time we got to the other side. And about 11 km to the Senegal border. And the infamous Senegal Duane. ( They even ripe the Gambians off. Even down to taking cups of suger or mobile phones off them.)

Thought i was heavily laden !!

Ok. Boring bit. I bought the new,westerners only, electronic Visa for Senegal. It's €52. But it only comes as ' Ordinary ' 30 days. Not Multiple Entry. And of course I'd entered Senegal via Mafia HQ Rosso. Coming from Mauritania.Then gone into Gambia to get bike and rider serviced. So officially, my Visa was now void. And my Passavont aka Lasser Passer,for the bike had expired. ( A Visa for the bike in effect. Allows import & export. )

" O good " I thought. At the border I cleared the Gambia Police,Immigration and Customs without drama or bribe.

Then over to the Senegal Bribe Squad. I mean Customs. I was tired, feeling ratty and wasn't in the mood for being ripped off and conned again.

Into see the Police first and gave my best " bonjour " and smile. Handed my passport, with invalid Visa over. Saw Senegal were playing on tv...and said " tres bien...ooo ca bon". ( id now used up 50 % of all my French words. )

Left some lovely little angels behind.Fatima i shall be back ..

The copper was clearly trying to watch it. As he looked at my Visa I gave hime my African Insurance Doc. And turned back to the tv..going " oooow "..( a French ooow ).
Blow me,he stamped me into the country. Missed the previous stamp completely.  And in I went. I changed my Gambian D currency to Senegal CFA. At 400 to 5000 CFA. ( a good rate ).

Now it was Senegal Mafia Customs. I thought about it, looked at my Passavont and thought I can blag this when I leave Senegal, into Mali. As I'd paid,but used the extra 48 hrs I got in Saint Luis. Customs hadn't dated the 48 hrs.

So it was two big,hidden,fingers in the air ,as I rode straight past the Senegal Customs office. And into Senegal.

My rear tail light is out. So I was trying to find a place to camp. I went about 50 km and came across a zoo. It was getting late now,but security camp out. I asked if I could camp inside, but was knocked back.

So I kept going, watching the bizzillion bugs splat on my visor. (Riding at night in Africa, is like someone has a insect Gattling gun zeroed in on you.)

One of my better creations. Corn beef and bread.This is my evening meal wild camping!

I went through and then back to a Gerndarme check point. Asking if I could camp next to their car. He actually spoke English ,checked and agreed. But they opened up the walled school behind their vehicle. I promised to be gone for 6 am. And I was in. Result !!

Internet is getting more rare. And I'm about to enter some very dangerous countries. Im doing all this to highlight the plight of wounded servicemen.

So please click the Help for Heroes logo. Top right and make my efforts worth while.

Gambian Ninja.....Par...and Van. Shall be back lads: Mandinka tribe

Underneath the Lemon tree.

So I got off the ferry in Banjul and straight into darkness and hussle and bustle. ( The Gambian electricity grid, can not support the demands. So power is rotated. One area having it one day, but not the next. )

I had no idea where to head, so I headed for the street lights that were on in the distance. I'd met a couple of Gambians on the ferry, that had been really helpful. They'd given me some cheap motel addresses. But without GPS, and in pitch darkness, it was impossible to find. 

It was very late, about 11 pm,it had been possibly my hardest day on the bike. It had been close to 100 degrees and very humid. I'd been riding for 15 hours. Gone through the border mayhem of Senegal/ The Gambia. And been on the most dangerous, fume filled, filthy ferry ever.Where heards of horned cows, shared the same space as bikes and cars and crowds of heavily laden people.Peeing and pooing everywhere. Whilst knocking into the sides of cars. It stank. We were all outside. P&O, all is forgiven. ;)

But I found a cheap room, with the help of a local and got my head down.( When anyone ' helps' you in Africa. 99% of the time they are making money somehow. Collecting commission from a motel later etc.) But that said, who can blame them.?

Next day I went for a beer. It had been rare in Morroco. Illegal in Mauritania. And who wants to socialise in Senegal ? (Still haven't forgiven the Customs.) Where I met some Christians. And after an hour I'd been invited to a wedding! ! I don't even go to them in the UK !! Non the less,in for penny. Off to a wedding I went. It was held in the tribal language. And occasionally English. I felt very privileged.I was even supplied an ironed shirt. I  gave the tribal language a quick burst in some of the Hyms. :)) went back to the newly weds compound afterwards. Shared a bowl of rice and something leathery looking. Four pairs of hands in the bowl, squashing the rice into balls. (Got to say, I don't find the eating like this easy.) 

On the down side, I did seem to be stood up when the rest of the church was sat down. And sat down when they were stood up .;)))

This is a very quick blog. As finding wi fi and electricity at the same time, has not been easy.

Past week I have serviced the bike and had a sump guard fitted. Lol. Check out the pics.

I moved out of the cheap Guest House and into a Muslim families house. One of five in a compound.

The Mandinka tribe. To sum up.  I've never been treated,nor experienced such hospitality and humanity. We ate out the same bowl,four times a day. I played football with the teenagers. And was constantly surrounded by the small kids. Fatima never far from my side,pushing the other kids away. Talk about heart melting stuff. Little angels. An old lady in the compound telling me " your wife ". Pointing at Fatima. Lol. Suits me, im 45 and she's 4 !!!! ( Might finally win an argument with a female. )

My nights have been spent underneath the Lemon tree with all the men in the compound.Where there is a distinctive Jamacan theme . Wink wink. Very chilled. Alcohol isn't that popular and of course isn't meant to be drank. But Paa and Van do goto a bar a couple of times a week. But mainly its underneath the Lemon tree till 2 am smoking. Listening to reggae music. 

Last night everyone from the compound had a party for me. About twenty five people, at a guess.I bought ten chickens, salade, potatoes and fanta for the kids. As a "thank you" for letting me live with them for the past week.Check the pics. Great night.

I'm leaving the Gambia right now. And am expecting problems with the Senegal Customs. As my Visa isn't multiple entry. But maybe bribery can work for me this time.

Loads of pics. Sorry this is short.  Rushing before wi fi cuts out.