Rear suspension has broken. Help !!

I'm some 600 km inside Mali now. I found a hotel complex in Bamako, the Capital, that let me camp outside. It has security and wi fi. What a result !!!

On route to Mali: Wild camping !!Low quality food every day, i am afriad.

The past 1,300 km from the Gambia to here have been hard going at times. The road sometimes being perfect. And clearly brand new. But other times,completely destroyed. Off road or dust track is  one thing. But huge,deep pot holes. Sometimes the size of car,connected together by a slither of tarmac has broken the seal on my rear mono shock absorber.

frame and the shocker have been damaged !!

Result being the rear mudguard is banging on the tyre,at the slightest bump. To counter,I have been stood up on the foot pegs for most of the past 360 odd kms. Not easy when you have lost 8 or 9 kg in weight.( over a stone in English. Or 18 lbs ish ) It wasn't like I had a lot available to loose in the first place. :)))

I have two requests folks. Firstly, this Challenge, despite mine and others best efforts, has only raised €100 in the past two weeks. £4100 in total.  Christian Walking Around Britain, in aid of homeless servicemen, has raised over £100,000. Difference being his charity donate page went viral on Facebook. Due to folks ' SHARING 'it. And most importantly, his challenge is constantly in the public eye,via the papers. He's even had international interest from TV broadcasters.

This isn't about him and it isn't about me. It's about helping men and women, who have served our country and returned in a wheelchair. Their arms and legs blown off by IED's. And over 70% of our servicemen who have lost an arm,get turned down for Incapacity Benefit !!! As if its their left arm and they are right handed.The governments paid for doctors, say they can still work and do not qualify! !!!

Can you please help me ? A.) Make a donation via the Help for Heroes logo top right. B) SHARE this blog on Facebook and Twitter.

As I mentioned before, my suspension is broken and my rear tyre is now worn. Due to the bottoming out. The mudguard rubbing against the tyre.

With the bribes and over charging of everything, my budget is 100% going to run out, way before Johannesburg.

Can you help me ?

The further and longer I go. The more charity donations we recieve. If you like what I am doing,please make a donation via THE TEAM FUEL BUTTON.

Ive had £85 donated. But the cost of shipping a rear shock absorber and tyre, plus fitting,will be more like £300. And I simply can't cover the cost.  Plus Visas, Passavonts,bribes for the next ten odd countries.

Please don't just hope someone else will do it. Because they will be thinking the same.

Im stuck here in war torn Mali. With my fingers crossed.

Below are some photos I took for you all along the way.This guy looked happy to see me.....not !!! Came over as the kids were showing me their school books. Kids so far, have been lovely. Heart melting stuff.

Super No1 make this bike. Check his tank !

Kids suround me; proudly shows me his school book

I am only ever one incident away from major trouble: personal protection:

on the roqd i hqve q knife under my tank bag:

You can see the where the tyre is bottoming out on the fender :

Underneath the Lemon tree.

So I got off the ferry in Banjul and straight into darkness and hussle and bustle. ( The Gambian electricity grid, can not support the demands. So power is rotated. One area having it one day, but not the next. )

I had no idea where to head, so I headed for the street lights that were on in the distance. I'd met a couple of Gambians on the ferry, that had been really helpful. They'd given me some cheap motel addresses. But without GPS, and in pitch darkness, it was impossible to find. 

It was very late, about 11 pm,it had been possibly my hardest day on the bike. It had been close to 100 degrees and very humid. I'd been riding for 15 hours. Gone through the border mayhem of Senegal/ The Gambia. And been on the most dangerous, fume filled, filthy ferry ever.Where heards of horned cows, shared the same space as bikes and cars and crowds of heavily laden people.Peeing and pooing everywhere. Whilst knocking into the sides of cars. It stank. We were all outside. P&O, all is forgiven. ;)

But I found a cheap room, with the help of a local and got my head down.( When anyone ' helps' you in Africa. 99% of the time they are making money somehow. Collecting commission from a motel later etc.) But that said, who can blame them.?

Next day I went for a beer. It had been rare in Morroco. Illegal in Mauritania. And who wants to socialise in Senegal ? (Still haven't forgiven the Customs.) Where I met some Christians. And after an hour I'd been invited to a wedding! ! I don't even go to them in the UK !! Non the less,in for penny. Off to a wedding I went. It was held in the tribal language. And occasionally English. I felt very privileged.I was even supplied an ironed shirt. I  gave the tribal language a quick burst in some of the Hyms. :)) went back to the newly weds compound afterwards. Shared a bowl of rice and something leathery looking. Four pairs of hands in the bowl, squashing the rice into balls. (Got to say, I don't find the eating like this easy.) 

On the down side, I did seem to be stood up when the rest of the church was sat down. And sat down when they were stood up .;)))

This is a very quick blog. As finding wi fi and electricity at the same time, has not been easy.

Past week I have serviced the bike and had a sump guard fitted. Lol. Check out the pics.

I moved out of the cheap Guest House and into a Muslim families house. One of five in a compound.

The Mandinka tribe. To sum up.  I've never been treated,nor experienced such hospitality and humanity. We ate out the same bowl,four times a day. I played football with the teenagers. And was constantly surrounded by the small kids. Fatima never far from my side,pushing the other kids away. Talk about heart melting stuff. Little angels. An old lady in the compound telling me " your wife ". Pointing at Fatima. Lol. Suits me, im 45 and she's 4 !!!! ( Might finally win an argument with a female. )

My nights have been spent underneath the Lemon tree with all the men in the compound.Where there is a distinctive Jamacan theme . Wink wink. Very chilled. Alcohol isn't that popular and of course isn't meant to be drank. But Paa and Van do goto a bar a couple of times a week. But mainly its underneath the Lemon tree till 2 am smoking. Listening to reggae music. 

Last night everyone from the compound had a party for me. About twenty five people, at a guess.I bought ten chickens, salade, potatoes and fanta for the kids. As a "thank you" for letting me live with them for the past week.Check the pics. Great night.

I'm leaving the Gambia right now. And am expecting problems with the Senegal Customs. As my Visa isn't multiple entry. But maybe bribery can work for me this time.

Loads of pics. Sorry this is short.  Rushing before wi fi cuts out.

Senegal

I left Saint Luis yesterday morning, leaving Pelican Auberge. Which I recommend. Over inflated prices because you are a rich white man ? Yep. The camp site was full with a Dutch Rally. But the Pelican staff said a room was 20,000 CFA. I'd done my homework and knew it to be 10,000 CFA. I said it was too much and offered 7,000. And surprise, surprise, the room was 10,000 CFA really.  See what I mean ? Multiply that by every single purchase.

Whilst in Saint Luis,I had to find the Senegal Customs Office. And extend my bikes Pasavont. So I had time to have my Mali Visa processed. And take some photos for you guys. Cost? 7000CFA. And a morning waiting. Not too bad.

Walked about the town.  Took photos of the boats being built outside the Pelican and the local taxi rank.lol Check out the Renualt 12's are they ? I like the people, always saying " bonjour",to me.;)

Whilst about 255 km from Saint Luis to Dakar is about right for me in a day,on the 125 Van Van. I have done close to 450 km. Trying to clear the Al Queda pro north Mauritania. But Senegal is very humid. The air, as I rode, was actually hot. I went through 4 or 5 litres of water. My Camel Bak now tasting ok. As I flushed it through with hot water from the shower. It had black bactetia in the pipe. Not a nice flavour.

The road to Dakar of Paris Dakar fame was good.  Not many pot holes. The small towns all looked the same. Women sat under one tree. The men sat under another. Sand was where you'd expect a pavement.  And there was always an Orange mobile shop.lol. But it rarely actually sold phones. Work that one out. See photo.

Kids waved as I touted my horn through the villages. And would surround me when I stopped for water and to have five. Always asking for " caduex",a gift. All smiling and happy. The best toy being a car tyre and stick. And our kids moan if they don't have the latest PS 3 game !!

The bike is well due a service now. And has a noise at the rear and slightly louder tappets. I'd always planned a four day stop in The Gambia, as it's English speaking.  And would be able to explain myself properly.  Hopefully the British Embassy will be able to help me out. In desperate need of compo,hexi blocks or a duel fuel cooker, that works. Puri tabs and a beer !!

In Dakar as I write this.  The camp site was closed when I got here at 7 pm last night. So had to pay for a hotel, that I can ill afford.

Went to the Mali Embassy today, to arrange my Visa.  It should be 48 hrs,but I explained my bikes Pasavont ran out tomorrow. ( its like a Visa for the bike.)

Very helpful and without a bribe,it will be ready at 4 pm today. Result!! 40 hrs quicker than normal. Cost ? 15,000 CFA .But I guess business isn't great at the moment.  As Mali is in civil war. Armed Muslims refusing ' man made laws ' and imposing Sharia Law. The French Army is there at the moment. So we shall see how that goes. I believe the south is relatively safe. But there are no guarantees.

Riding in some of the cities here is a just mental. No rules,none. People just walk out, some with pots on their heads. Some hearding goats and donkeys. Traffic lights mean nothing. Lanes and pavement s are just guidelines. Man holes with no covers. The list goes on.

On my way back from the embassy to the hotel. A taxi slowly pulled out and hit me. Trapping my leg between his bumper and my bike. The bike now at 40 degrees, as I struggled to hold it up. I punched his bonnet and asked him nicely to move back. To release my leg. He didn't.  Didn't even get out the car. Whole different rule book here. But not surprised. Just got to roll with it.

Off to get some food. Lost a fair bit of weight. Got to look after myself.  Even if I am number four of priorities. ( water,petrol,bike and then me.)

All is well, slept for England last night. Broke £4,000 with Gift Aid yesterday. But please, if you like what I'm doing.  Click the Help for Heroes logo,top right. All this is so you will donate to help wounded servicemen.

You can find me on Facebook.  London to Johannesburg. Click LIKE. And get the updates.

Will.

Africa. Two sides. The bad

Thought long and hard about this blog. If I'd written this last night, there would have been a lot of ##@$! In it.

Ok. For the most part the people in general have been intrigued and friendly. Language barrier aside. I get saluted everywhere on the bike. Apparently it is a mark of respect. I don't know if this is an Islamic custom or regional. Most of the countries in this neck of the woods are Islamic. A Muslim told me " they respect and like you are on a bike and alone."

But,I am also seen as the golden goose. Almost nothing has a price on it. It's down to the shop keeper and what he thinks he can get. So I have been well and truly over charged about 70 % of the time. When you don't know anyone and can't speak various versions of Arabic, what can you do ? To counter, I have written down numbers in French and learnt about twenty new words. And this has helped a lot.

Ahhh Rosso !!!! I've read and read about all I could about this challenge.  I ended up taking 15 weeks off work, engrossed in it. Getting sponsorship from companies, learning HTML for the blog come website. ( this one ).And reading horror stories about Rosso. The border crossing from Mauritania to Senegal.

So I want to simply put in writing for other ' Overlanders ',my experience.

First off. There are regular fixed Gerndarme Police check points. Where you need to provide your passport or a photocopy. Along with where you are going, coming from and Make of vehicle. Etc.

After I'd had my 'good' African moment yesterday. Sat in the house drinking tea. I rode 40 km or so and came to a check point. The police did the usual with my passport.  Then handed me a mobile. I didn't understand a word the guy said. Just heard " ok. Come to me ".

20 km later I arrived at another Gerndarme check point. A smart man approached and said " William "?
He showed me his ID card ' Transit National'.Asked for my passport,  Driving Licence and V5 log book. He then got into his car and said come with me. I thought to his office 30 meters away, or similar. But no!!
Warp factor 50 blasting down the road to Rosso. Like something off a film. Him a lot quicker than me,in his Mercedes. But having to slow down for scatter bomb like pot holes. And me flat out, bobing and weaving left side,right side, off the road,on the road. " oooooow sh#t ",I thought.

We came to another Gerndarme check point. Where I put my bike in front of his car and snatched the passport and docs back off him. Yet the Police said " he good man ".

Relived,I followed. But now he had to go at my bikes pace. Not his.Into Rosso port. (The border is a ferry crossing a river. )
The port is like a small army camp. With armed soldiers at the gate and inside. It was a hive of activity, three European cars to one side. I didn't see any non black people though. Everyone queuing in various lines,within the compound.

Mr ' National Transit ', took me to buy a ferry ticket. I was free,but the bike was 5,000 Og.( £10 ish ). I believe this to be the correct price. I was then charged ' tax ' of 2,000 Og. And 4,000 Og for Mauritania Customs. Then the scam really kicked in. I had to buy insurance from the agent in Mauritania for Senegal. And he just happened to be stood next to my bike. Captain Transit shouted him over. Cost for my 125 for 5 days in Senegal ?? ( its just over a 100 £ for a year in uk.)...

Are you ready....5 days insurance, for a country where bikes look like recycled bed frames and have no number plates. 39,500 Og!!!!!! Best part of £100.!!!

I now started to loose my mo jo.I had six of them around me. All talking at the same time. Telling me if I didn't pay,I couldn't get on the ferry. I told them I had insurance for Mauritania and would buy Senegal insurance, once there. It wasn't my job to personally put there kids through private education. Which led to me saying that their system was corrupt. And the people they effect the most,are their own. As it puts people off going to this country. To which Mauritania Customs ( what have they got to do with insurance for Senegal ). Said my country was racist. He got turned down for a Visa,because he was black. I told him there must be 10 million non whites in the UK. And if he wanted in,goto San Gat refugee camp.

Eventually I paid 16,900 for my insurance. Not 39,500. And got 2 months for several countries on route. Not 5 days, Senegal only.

Then Captain Transit pipes up with " I want my commission "!! When he'd told me he worked for the government and it was free,for my safety. I gave him $5 in $1 's. And said enough is enough.

Scam went to phase two now. An innocent engish speaking by stander comes over on que. He is supposedly from The Gambia. He says they are bad people. And we go on the 3 minutes ferry together. He tells me it will cost €80 to get through Senegal Police and Customs. To cover bribes and my bikes Import tax. I know this figure to be 2,500 CFA in the week and 5,000 CFA on weekends. (Passavont )
Cut the story slightly short,as red mist is desending. My bike was held by Senegal Customs till I paid. The ' innocent by stander ',took me to the bank. Now of course they have me over a barrel. Then trys to tell me the taxi man,in his Peugeot 405 that looked like he'd had it crushed already. Wanted €20 for 15 km round trip.I argued over that,but paid about €13. Now back at HQ Scam Control Senegal. Just about to get my passport back,docs and bike. There is a problem. My bike is over 10 years old. I pointed out it had dow 6 or 7,000 km to get here. And was in better shape than anything I'd seen on the road so far. But...guess what ? He wanted ' something '. I was tiered by this point. Annoyed. Agreaved. And said #uck Senegal ...I will go back to Mauritania. We exchanged stares and a few more words.

The outcome was $15 more and I could leave. Baring in mind,I'd already paid €52 for my Visa on line. Which is e mail only for non Africans.

Various currencies in that scamathon. For anyone going to cross at Rosso....DON'T !!!  Goto Dialma. But they don't have the technology to accept the new electronic Visas. Nobody seems to know how to avoid Rosso now. And I guess, that's the whole point.

From Gerndarme to ' National Transit '. Mauritania insurance, Customs and everything on the Senegal side. It's one big, all in it together SCAM !!!

So. The two sides to Africa. Everything I'd read was true. And now,at least for the time being, unavoidable.

My budget simply can't take that sort of hit. I've said all along. Whatever this challenge throws at me. I will beat it. Only running out of money or death, will stop me.

Tomorrow I leave Saint Luis for Dakar. To arrange my Visa for Mali. I'm going to The Gambia next,but couldn't find 100% info on getting a Mali Visa in Banjul. Should take 24 hrs to get Mali Visa in Dakar. And it's why I had to extend my bike transit, from 48 hrs to 96. And hopefully get some pics on route for you guys.

All is well. Lost a good bit of weight already. Fried luncheon meat and bread sheds the pounds ladies. :)

Sorry it's not a happy blog. But just sharing my journey as I see it. Really looking forward to The Gambia and being able to speak freely again.  In English. :)))))))

Going to the British Embassy.  As The SSM at the The Royal Regiment of Gibraltar has e mailed them. Hopefully they might help me with some compo,hexi blocks and puri tabs. Maybe even know where I can get the bike serviced. And cheap bed for 3 or 4 nights.

Not many photos yet. As been doing admin. Cleaning kit. Going to Customs. And other behind the scenes stuff. That isn't too interesting.

Take two minutes and click the Help for Heroes logo. Only £64 from £4,000 now. Let me blaze your name over the internet. Make a difference.  Make a donation. :))

Will.

Africa. Two sides. The good.

I left a flooded Nouakchoot, Mauritania, two days ago. A good foot of rain fell over night. Le foot,for those of you who are European. :)

My tent is getting well worn,I've been sleeping in it 95% of the past 6 or 7 weeks. It has the odd hole in it now. Which I have patched up,as best i can, using my puncture repair kit.But under those conditions, it did leak a bit. My sleeping bag getting wet and some kit. Then the sand of course making a lovely comfortable combination. But that doesn't bother me,there is always a solution.

The storm was a complete freak of nature and almost unheard of. ( check the photos. Not easy to ride off road, in water and take photos.  But gave it a go. ) :))

The 'road' had turned into a mud bath. Cars stuck everywhere. My back end wanted to spin to the front. In the end I went for the flatest ground. Which happen to be in the middle of the water. Just went for it at about 15 mph. Not wanting the water to cover the electrics. Worked fine and I got into the town.

Floods we have all seen. But in a 3 rd world country ? They couldn't cope. Simply a lack of infrastructure. The water was above the curbs and you now couldn't see all the pot holes. So I decided to ride on the pavement and gently drop off the curbs. I don't have a sump guard, but will sort that in the English speaking Gambia. :)))

Traffic was mental, and there wasn't one single road sign for Senegal or Rosso. But used my poor French to ask. Totally drenched, I decided to try out the Islamic belief of ' helping a stranger '.

After some 100 km I pulled over and into a tiny rural village. Half a dozen traditional tents,goats and chickens. I asked if I could camp the night. To the oldest male I could see. He noded and off I went to pitch the tent. Not 5 minutes later,a smartly dressed Muslim, in traditional clothes approached. Speaking in English, ( wow ), he asked if I had a problem ? I explained the rain etc. Turned out he was just passing and saw me. He told me it was important for Muslims to look after a stranger in need. And no problem with staying in the village. He returned to the slightly bemused villagers. Where upon they all prayed together.  Im guessing, for me. How privileged was I ??

What it gave me was a chance to dry my kit by a fire. Dry ish,some food and a brew. All I need. Sorted. :)

Following morning I said my thank yous. And headed to the notorious Rosso border crossing,to Senegal.

I rode for another 100 km or so and decided to test the locals response, when I stopped for water,in their villages. Everyone was inquuzatative and friendly. One young lad spoke to me in English. Two on the trot !!! The other kids all were scared of my camera. (See covered faces on pics )

He invited me to tea at his house. Loving the local fused brew. I was up for it in a flash. We sat on the floor in his house. Speaking English, as he told of his opinions of his country. It's problems and his desire to join his brother in America. What a pleasure and privilege.

Two sides to Africa. I've actually edited this. But it's that sort of experience, that is my payment in all this.

You will read in the next blog, the other dark side.

All good with me. Bike has been asked to do what some say is impossible for a commuter 125. Yer here we are in Saint Louis.  Senegal.

Have a heart and donate by clicking the Help for Heroes logo. Top right.

Will.