Oyibo

Back here in the UK we have a mulit cultural society. We are conditioned to interact in a certain manner.We have, what we are told, is a ' Socially Evolved Society '. In Nigeria it is a Mono Cultural Society. Yes there are over 500 tribes and languages. With three main ones are, Ibo in the west, Hausa in the north and Yoruba in the east.And whilst there are two main religions, Islam and Christianity, culturally, they all sing off the same hymn sheet.( See what I did there.....comedy genius.)

I say all this,as what is ' normal ' here, isn't ' normal ' there. And visa versa.So I wanted to share some mentality differences and some of the incidents born of those differences.Remember, I am the only white man.

" Oyibo ".

All across the African continent I was shouted at, sometimes in a very friendly manner. Sometimes children flocked around me. Sometimes it was with utter contempt. The names I was called all had one thing in common.....they meant 'white man'.

In Nigeria, despite all the different tribal languages and English being spoken to varying degrees. From absolutely nothing to fluent. 'Oyibo' means ' white man '. And the mentality I constantly met was one of interest and intrigue. But also, one of ' you are white, you are rich and i want your money'. Political Correctness does not exist and so honesty flourishes.The people speak much more openly than we do in the UK.Can you imagine a black man shouting out " hey white man " ? And the response being " hi black man " . All said tongue and cheek. But for them, there is no reason to know my actually name, as I am the only white man. So, Oyibo is enough.

Nigeria, along with all of Africa is completely informal, by our standards. Complete strangers will speak to you, as if long lost relatives. People will speak to you briefly at a bar and then just join you at your table.And speak as if you've always known each other.( One of my biggest cultural shocks, has actually been coming back to the UK.And back to everyone ignoring each other.By comparison.) But with this is both good and bad. As in my experience, 90 % had an agenda. An agenda as I was ' Oyibo '. It was to a point that when someone befriended me and sat at my table, I was counting the seconds till he or she wanted something from me.All the pleasant and friendly chat was usually just a sales pitch at the end of the day. But once you know it's a game and don't let on that you do, you are empowered.

Cigarettes and normally Benson & Hedges, are 200 N a packet. ( 260 N to £1.) Your new ' friend' sits at your table and within 2 minutes he will have helped himself to a fag.( Americans reading this. No happy, happy men are involved in this moment.! ) .He then will order a Star beer, costing 300 N. Chat with you like you're his best mate.Tell you he would love to see the UK and when are you going to invite him over. When he gets told its not possible, he gets up and moves onto his next bar. It's cost you a beer, as it's a tab on your table and a couple of cigarettes. Fifteen minutes later, the next one comes over and befriends you......

....' you are white, you are rich and I want your money..'.......

Whilst these moments are both frequent, at almost conveyor belt speed.They don't actually cost too much, yes on principle its wrong. By our social standards. But i promise you, you will never change the African mentality, of how they view the white man.There is a view that we some how magically just have lots of money.Education and hard work are never part of the formula. Just that ' we ' have money.The end.

But I can also confirm, that I have also been invited to tables by complete strangers and treated like a celebrity or something. What ever drink I wanted and ....ahum....just point at which women you want.!!
Women in Africa are completely subservient to the man. Completely.Not only do they look after the home and the children.They make the food, Yam Yam for example, taking hours of pounding with a large pole.Into a tree trunk. To make it eatable.( Its a bit like potato and glue.) Then the women are expected to do ' any lifting in the bush '.You will see them walking with huge stacks of 10 ft long wooden logs on their heads, for miles, back to the mud huts. The men seem to all gather under large trees and stay in the shade.Often drinking Palm Wine.

I did say our cultures and society are very different. Almost to the point of being opposite. Yet, in Africa, it works just fine.

As ' Oyibo ', i did have more than one incident involving guys ramming their elbows into my back, whilst in a club near my hotel.I put up with it twice and then told them what I thought.Which seemed to surprise them.It's a fine line between standing up for decency and being perceived as an arrogant ' Oyibo'.But in my experience, you do it right, other Nigerians come to your aid.

Whilst in the same club, I was invited over to table. The guy who invited me kept getting up to have his picture taken, mainly with girls. Turned out he was from Ethiopia, spoke fantastic English and had just won Big Brother Africa.The man next to him sent a message over to me, apparently he was a famous DJ in Calabar. And when he found out my motorbike story, wanted to interview me.

That night as I walked the 200 m back to my hotel.At the bottom of the road I was staying on, lay some logs. ( Which means illegal road block.) Knife in my right boot, but with alcohol in my body....out jumped two men with huge machetes!!! Machetes raised and shouting. I lowered my head slightly, turned my empty hands towards them and just said " Oyibo". " How's it going, are you security "  ? ( Local Vigilantes. ) They said ' yes '. Accepted I wasn't a threat and walked me to my hotel. Me talking all the way.....and no, I have no idea what i was saying. I just wanted to keep them on side. One of them scrapped his machete along the railings of the metal Hotel fence and shouted the security inside.Certainly could have been a different moment, but it all worked out in the end.It helps if you know how they think. Or at least try to.

Next blog is about how I sold my little motorbike in Nigeria and the final bribes I paid to get out of the country.

I've put myself through al ot and cost myself my home, all possessions and now my savings.I'm not claiming the dole and am living off my Overdraft. Daily I risked my life all across Africa. I did it to raise awareness and donations for wounded servicemen.They sit in wheel chairs....without legs. Help me to help them stand, stand with dignity. Please click the Help for Heroes logo top right. Make a donation please.

Will

Pot holes. Begging. And two tanks of fuel..

....two packets of crisps and a pint of lager.

What a day.Up at 6 am,as agreed with the Senegal Gerndarme. As I was finishing packing my kit away,the teachers started to arrive. One lady offering me " Cafe two bob " . ( Remember,  "two bob "was the price of a slave. And means " white man".)
Cafe two bob is great. It's not just coffee,in fact, I've no idea what's in it. But it comes only in black, ironically, and is just the business. Have one if you can.

Off I went,filling up at the petrol station outside. 700 CFA a litre. I'd got 13 lt of water from the Gambia. I was all set and really wanted to push it, and get some good kms under my belt.

I still don't have a map or GPS,but I do Google the route prior and draw my own. Writing the village names down and sliding the list into a pouch on my enduro suit sleave.

Heading north on a dust track,the one I'd come in on. I really tried to push it, going a tad faster than I'd done some 8 days prior. Finally coming to the N1 and heading East towards Mali. Following the old railway line. That runs from Dakar. Senegal.  To Bamako in Mali.

 

Im guessing, as I'm in my tent right now. That Banjul to Bamako is 1300 km ish. And Karang to the Mali border at Kidra, about 650 /700 km.

knife under tank bag. personal protection.

Here in Senegal, when ever I stop for a water come fag break.Come,let the bike cool down.  The kids are over me like a rash. They are dirty and shoe less. But unlike the poorer Gambians. They aren't smilling and calling out " two bob ",with a smile on their face. They are begging and pushy. What can I do ??Im not exactly living the high life either ! Dinner is served.

another lovely meal

What annoys,is all these African leaders live in plush palaces. Even when the country has no income.Have armoured Range Rovers...by the fleet. All bought with ' aid' money. Whilst their people can't afford food or flip flops. Wonder how many Range Rovers and Landcruisers the 12 ££££ billion the British government gives away bought ??

The road was pretty good at first. But the last 70 km it was pot holes connected to pot holes. The only other vehicles on the road being trucks from Mali. Had to swerve from one side to the other. Just to get through. It truly looks like a Secound World War Luftwaffer runway.After a night bombing raid by the RAF. I've been swerving in and out of them. But sometimes hitting them.Its just unavailable.  They are deep. My rear suspension has taken a pounding today. My front forks both have leaks too.

I've used two tanks of fuel. My main tank is a whopping 5.7 lt and reserve is 1,8 lt. I seem to get 200 km to a main tank. So I must have done over 400 km today. I will check when I get internet again.

I'm presently 30 km north of Tambacoumba. I'm wild camping again tonight. I found a some low ground with good cover. I've just had my fried luncheon meat,bread and water. And all is well. My body feels like it's been in the gym all day. A proper,proper work out. My eyes are heavy as. Will sleep well tonight, all be it with one eye open.

My view as i woke up, wild camping. Senegal bush.

Looking forward to getting to Mali tomorrow. I'm about 150 km away. ( They have the old school road side stone. With next town and distance on them.

Mali is in a bloody civil war at the moment. With armed Muslim extremists,imposing strict Sharia Law upon all. The French army is in their at the moment.

The Mandinka tribe gave me a big "rambo" knife. As they call it. Which, whilst riding, is under my tank bag. And in my right pocket when off .

If you like what I am doing. Please donate by clicking the Help for Heroes logo. If you want to help me; click the Team Fuel button. Im down to £1,500 and will run out before Johannesburg. 

 

  Hot; hot, hot work this all day.Locals so far, have been friendly.But i wont take my eye off the security ball!

Speak soon

Will

Senegal

I left Saint Luis yesterday morning, leaving Pelican Auberge. Which I recommend. Over inflated prices because you are a rich white man ? Yep. The camp site was full with a Dutch Rally. But the Pelican staff said a room was 20,000 CFA. I'd done my homework and knew it to be 10,000 CFA. I said it was too much and offered 7,000. And surprise, surprise, the room was 10,000 CFA really.  See what I mean ? Multiply that by every single purchase.

Whilst in Saint Luis,I had to find the Senegal Customs Office. And extend my bikes Pasavont. So I had time to have my Mali Visa processed. And take some photos for you guys. Cost? 7000CFA. And a morning waiting. Not too bad.

Walked about the town.  Took photos of the boats being built outside the Pelican and the local taxi rank.lol Check out the Renualt 12's are they ? I like the people, always saying " bonjour",to me.;)

Whilst about 255 km from Saint Luis to Dakar is about right for me in a day,on the 125 Van Van. I have done close to 450 km. Trying to clear the Al Queda pro north Mauritania. But Senegal is very humid. The air, as I rode, was actually hot. I went through 4 or 5 litres of water. My Camel Bak now tasting ok. As I flushed it through with hot water from the shower. It had black bactetia in the pipe. Not a nice flavour.

The road to Dakar of Paris Dakar fame was good.  Not many pot holes. The small towns all looked the same. Women sat under one tree. The men sat under another. Sand was where you'd expect a pavement.  And there was always an Orange mobile shop.lol. But it rarely actually sold phones. Work that one out. See photo.

Kids waved as I touted my horn through the villages. And would surround me when I stopped for water and to have five. Always asking for " caduex",a gift. All smiling and happy. The best toy being a car tyre and stick. And our kids moan if they don't have the latest PS 3 game !!

The bike is well due a service now. And has a noise at the rear and slightly louder tappets. I'd always planned a four day stop in The Gambia, as it's English speaking.  And would be able to explain myself properly.  Hopefully the British Embassy will be able to help me out. In desperate need of compo,hexi blocks or a duel fuel cooker, that works. Puri tabs and a beer !!

In Dakar as I write this.  The camp site was closed when I got here at 7 pm last night. So had to pay for a hotel, that I can ill afford.

Went to the Mali Embassy today, to arrange my Visa.  It should be 48 hrs,but I explained my bikes Pasavont ran out tomorrow. ( its like a Visa for the bike.)

Very helpful and without a bribe,it will be ready at 4 pm today. Result!! 40 hrs quicker than normal. Cost ? 15,000 CFA .But I guess business isn't great at the moment.  As Mali is in civil war. Armed Muslims refusing ' man made laws ' and imposing Sharia Law. The French Army is there at the moment. So we shall see how that goes. I believe the south is relatively safe. But there are no guarantees.

Riding in some of the cities here is a just mental. No rules,none. People just walk out, some with pots on their heads. Some hearding goats and donkeys. Traffic lights mean nothing. Lanes and pavement s are just guidelines. Man holes with no covers. The list goes on.

On my way back from the embassy to the hotel. A taxi slowly pulled out and hit me. Trapping my leg between his bumper and my bike. The bike now at 40 degrees, as I struggled to hold it up. I punched his bonnet and asked him nicely to move back. To release my leg. He didn't.  Didn't even get out the car. Whole different rule book here. But not surprised. Just got to roll with it.

Off to get some food. Lost a fair bit of weight. Got to look after myself.  Even if I am number four of priorities. ( water,petrol,bike and then me.)

All is well, slept for England last night. Broke £4,000 with Gift Aid yesterday. But please, if you like what I'm doing.  Click the Help for Heroes logo,top right. All this is so you will donate to help wounded servicemen.

You can find me on Facebook.  London to Johannesburg. Click LIKE. And get the updates.

Will.

9 Days to go.

Why do I always feel as though I am at Confession, when I write this  blog ??

Yes only 9 days to go. I shall be leaving from Blindley Heath. Surrey. At 1400 hrs. Saturday 14 th Sept. So if you like what I am doing. Why not just come along and show your support. I will be a bit embarrassed,  but really appreciative.

In Southampton at the moment. Last 4 days of The Extreme Stunt Show tour. I have been working my way through 6 A4 pages of "To Do".

Just back from sorting out some US Dollars. (The international currency of "bail me out ").

And bought a load more kit. Nothing too exciting.  And definitely no shoes !!

But I have finished off the home made First Aid kit now. And the Wash Shaving kit has been cut back to the bare bones.

Some of the kit bought today includes. 2x 10 Lt collapsable water (emergency) Fuel Containers. 4 more extra strong bungees. 1 x 10 Lt Water Container.  Petrol lighter. Disk Lock. Balloons. ( Personal Survival kit). Not to have a party in the Sahara Desert, if the mood grabs me. But to put in my Camel Bak. They can be a good, quick emergency water container. When placed in a sock. I will also have NRG 5 bars.And 48 hrs German Special Forces rations in there. For use in theatres of limited water supply.

Others bits of kit that were on my list include. LED head tourch, plastic plate and some diggers. Quality re sealable bags.The all important Tabasco sauce. Which can change the taste of anything you cook. And for me, that's not a bad thing. As I am rubbish. A couple of old P38 tin openers. As I don't intend to use any of my Army boil in the bag packs till I get to Morocco. I will just buy a few tins each night, whilst in France and Spain.

Anyway, pictures paint a thousand words.

I will update in a few days. From the 9th to departure, I am going to be a busy lad

Please remember why I am doing all this. Its to help wounded servicemen.  Most of whom have been in a IED explosion. And have lost arms and legs. I have given up my lovely Surrey apartment.  Sold my TV etc. My MX 5 ....and it had pop up head lights!! Worked seven days a week.  For the past 26 weeks on The Extreme Stunt Show.  Uk tour.

Now it's over to you. The British public.  Will you care enough to make a difference ? Will you make a donation by clicking the Help for Heroes logo top right ??? I don't know.  Guess I will find out. ;)

How could i forget ? I also have a Drift X 170 Helmet Camera on route. Its used.But at £50, not £170, its a bargain.  So I should be able to upload footage. Which should be pretty Gucci.

Will

Buying the kit.20 Days to go !!!!!!

Unlike women, we men don't go shopping for shoes, nails or hair extensions. We go shopping for man toys. These last few days I have been on light duties with The Extreme Stunt Show. As I managed to fracture my left shoulder bone.My main worry is doing too much and turning a fracture into a break. Which would mess everything up.But it seems to be knitting together and another few days, should see the sling come off.

In the mean time I have been on E Bay and buying some of the kit I need for the expedition and the bike.Some of my new gems include a Multi Fuel Stove, Self Inflating 3 Cm mat, Purification tabs,NRG 5 Emergency Rations and cool as, Blue Hand Guards.

Those of you that follow this blog, will know I have put a shout out, on a number of occasions, for kit. As quite simply, my budget is too small. Having lost a major sponsoring company.Well, It never ceases to amaze me this Challenge.

From Army mates I have had Rations Packs donated ( Huge " Thanks " to Wee George Horn ).Im sure he has a Nuclear Bunker,and this is part of his stash ! A Gortex 2 man tent.( Curtisy of Jason till ) A 3 lt Camel Bak and water purification gadget. ( Again from Jason " the legend " Till ). A Gerber Multi tool, which are proper Gucci kit. And that from someone who I have never met. And had recommended to me from another website. ( Providers for Riders). Another " big thank you " to Melissa Hook and her boyfriend.Aka Mark75red. :) And  a possibility of some more compo from a couple of lads who served with 63 Para Sqn.5 Airborne. Now 16 Air Assault.And last night Geof Andrews ( another Army mate) donated a brand new DiD Chain and Sprocket set, for the mighty Van Van. !! Amazing support. Twangs at the heart strings really :)

The reality is, that without the support I have along the way, these past 10 months,this challenge would not have been possible.

So that is most of the major purchases covered.I am still on the look out for the following : Slam Plate, Disk Cover, Fork Gators,Universal Wind Screen,tyre levers,pump and a Solar Monkey Charger. If anyone can help with these items or anything else,please, please step forward.

We finish the tour on the evening of the 8 th September. And I depart @ 1400 hrs. Blindley Heath. Saturday 14 th September.Not having a home anymore, has meant I have had all the donated kit and e Bay purchases, sent a mates house near London.

The 5 days I have between finishing work and leaving are going to be mega, mega busy. To actually go, is going to be a relief in some ways.

I have my fingers crossed someone who is bike savy or a bike shop, will read this and help me give the bike the once over. Anyone help me out ? I have £250 worth of sponsored bike consumables from wemoto. I need to service the bike, change the front pads,rear shoes ( yes it has a rear drum brake ).Green slime the inner tubes.Adjust the clutch a tad and fit the new chain and sprocket.There after, it's brave pill, fingers crossed and go for it.

Some photos of the new kit on it's way to my mates house.Poor Dangerous Brian. His flat is going to be like a Parcel Force sub depot this week. :)

Kit on it's way includes....

Gerber Multi tool..

Was going to be this tent. A Vango Hydra. But will now be a Gor tex 2 man.

Part of Wee Jock Horns  bunker stash.

1 tab per 1 Lt. 20 mins shake and drink.

Runs on anything . Petrol,diesel and oil. Straight out of the bike tank.

So much to do and such little time.I am in desperate need to get this challenge into the National papers, so as to increase donations to wounded servicemen. Which is what this is all about.So all this week, after work, I shall be e mailing the papers and magazines. Soldier Magazine have said they are featuring it. And Adventure Rider Magazine may also do a write up. Fingers crossed.. We have raised over £2,000 and I look forward to seeing the £3,000 barrier broken with the national media coverage.

Sorry so long in coming. Hard trying to fit everything in at the moment. But am chipping away at it all. :)

Will

Rear rack and fuel containers finished.

Just finished building the luggage rack and fuel containers. I'm really happy with the outcome. She rides a little differently. But it all works perfectly. It's a big " Thank You " to Tony Bailey. Aka Tony International.

So far I have sprayed the bike white. From Yellow.  (Cheers Dave Lythcoe ).

Got a sponsored non slip blue seat cover. From P & P Seats.
Replaced the indicators with smaller rubber enduro ones. Replaced the standard front fork oil with monster truck oil. Removed the front fender for extra travel. Convered a shopping basket to a head lamp grill. Lol. And repositioned the rear indicators, to the back of the new rack.

So far so good. Only four weeks to go !!!!!

Check out the photos. ..

Luggage Rack

Hi all,

Only got ten minutes before the show starts.  So I shall let the pictures do the talking.

Myself and Tony International have just been building the luggage rack. And extra fuel holders.

What do you think ?

So far it's taken 8 hours.  But now have two ex army back packs as panniers.  A top box. (Fitted tomorrow ). And holders for 2x5Lt cans. Giving me a range of approx.350 miles.

Off to work.  

Exact departure date, time and location

Depart Saturday .September 14 th. 1400 hrs. From The Biker Store. Blindley Heath. Surrey. RH76JP. England.

Wow, two blogs in two days !! I am trying to cram all admin. for the challenge in the next ten days. So, here we go. Sponsoring company TaskForce Distribution are sending me a pair of Lowa Zepher GTX Gortex Desert boots. They will be at my mates house in Nottingham today. They are the same boot used by the British Army. As I have to travel very light, I shall be taking one pair boots for ridding, walking and the odd tribal dance. This is the boot I really wanted and TaskForce Distribution have been kind enough to get behind the challenge and sponsor me. So it's a big, big " thank you " from me. Here is there site. Just click the boot below..



Johanthan at The Biker Store,they have a massive store, has really helped me out too. He is sponsoring me a AGV AX 8 DS helmet. ( I just had to go for Titanium.Proper boys colour. )Some goggles, gloves and " technical underwear ". I am at a loss as to what that is. But they sound good !! Click their logo to check out the store. All these goodies are on their way to my mates house. His neighbors are going to busy with couriers leaving boxes. :) I have just got an e mail from Suzuki GB. There has been some Red tape about ordering accessories for the challenge. That being that Suzuki Japan can only sponsor me Suzuki Van Van genuine accessories. Which creates a problem. As they don't make any !!!! So the solution is a loop hole within their ordering process. I will update you all as soon as I know more. But it looks like Hand Guards, F/ Gaiters,F/ Disk Cover and high grade Denier panniers can be sourced. All my bits are crossed.:) On the media coverage front. The Nottingham Evening Post have said they will cover the story.The editor is calling me on Monday. Gaining coverage is an area I am concentrating on over the next few days off.The more coverage, hopefully, the more donations. I am ridding over 20,000 kms. Solo and unsupported, cross UK, France, Spain, Morroco, Mauritania, Mali, Gambia, Nigeria, Angola..the list goes on.Some of these countries are in bloody civil wars and not to mention I have to cross the Western Sahara Desert and Eastern Sahara Desert. Help me to help wounded servicemen who have lost arms and legs. Click the Help for Heroes below and make a donation. Here try this CLICK ON LOGO