Nouckhout

Update. Just got to the capital. Did 285 km today. Hot, humid and solitry.Knackered !! For the distance, the most tiering ride so far.But i found a place to camp, right on the beach. I had expected to pitch up at a Gerndarme check point. This place is run by a French guy, called Nicolas. Food is very pricey. More than European prices, but it's only €5 to camp. The beach is white sand and has few people using it. By all accounts, wealthy Mauritanians and Embassy personal come here.

Apparently the capital is an absolute dump. Rubbish everywhere and full of mosquitos. So I'd say I got very lucky. What a contrast. 99% of the country lives in either home made wooden shaks or nomadic tents. Yet here I could be in Barbados.

Just had a German guy come over. We spoke at the Morrocan border. Small world.  He sells cars from Germany in Mauritania. Makes a profit and then lives the good life in northern Morocco.

There seems to be a little industry doing this. In particular selling in The Gambia. Where there isn't any import documents. Going to take a look at it myself.

Well, long day. Very humid. Drank 4 litres of water today, whilest riding. All good though. :) Going to have a quick swim in the morning. :)))

Speak soon.

Will

Mauritanian border

I wild camped in the Sahara for the last time, some 150 km south of Dakhla.

I quite enjoy the whole wild camping. Finding a decent spot. Out of view from anyone. I fry the luncheon meat and pop some cheese on the frizzby bread. Have a brew and watch the stars. I've not actually watched a TV show since March. Due to living in the ' bunk waggon ', on the Extreme Stunt Show for 26 weeks. And being on the road doing this challenge, since September 14 th. Can't say I've missed my 42" tv or most of the rubbish on it.

I packed my camp away this morning and was back on the only tarmac road for 11 am. I had about 240 km to the border. From my research, I'd read of bribery on both sides of the border. Hassles and long delays.And definitely a 4 km stretch between Morocco and Mauritania, creativity known as ' No Mans Land '. 

No Man's Land is not tarmac or asphalt. It's desert and rock. Either side of this invisible track is a mine field. I mean that literally. Apparently from a previous war the two countries had. ( Check the photos out. )

One couple blew themselves up recently.  But normally it's just camels that tred on a mine. And proceed to throw themselves 50 meters in the air. And scatter themselves over a half block radius.!!!!!!!

I got to the Morrocan border. A bit tiered , but more annoyed than anything.  At the prospect of being told to pay a bribe multiple times. I decided I would play dumb. ( " Me no understand French. ").And also become a charity worker for African children for the day. :)

Morrocan Police first. Got shouted back, as I rode straight through their check point. " Oops!! " Had to fill a form in, in French. Did it, amazingly, handed it in and got my first passport stamp. All whilst I rattled on about being a charity aid worker in Africa.

Customs the Army and then finally the Police again. All understood I was an aid worker for les enfant african...

It worked. 30 minutes and all done !! A que of folk still waiting, all of whom were ahead of me. Result.

The barrier lifted and the Morrocan tarmac road ended. Into No Mans Land. Loads of annoying people milling about. 'Misuer '...'misuer'....shook my head. Stood up on my bike, put my bum on my rolled up doss bag. And went for it, following the tyre marks in the sand.

Cars were on their roof left and right of me. Stripped out and gutted. (Bit like their owners, no doubt.) Tv sets were stroon everywhere. No idea what that was all about. All while some 'no mans land' man, waved at me. So I took a photo and waved back.

4 km later..." What's all the fuss about " ? Pleased to write that. :)) It obviously can be dangerous. Follow tyre tracks. Say "non" to the dodgy looking men in 'no mans land'. (Name change to 'Loads of Mans Land' , mighty be in order.)

Into Mauritania. ...the border looked decidedly poor, compared to Morocco. The army were scruffy. And the supppsed soldier booking my passport in, spent 20 minutes waffling on his mobile to his Mrs or someone !! ' oy '..I said.Pointing at his computer. I then smiled and went back to being a charity aid worker, for African children. 

Eventually I was met by a lad from The Gambia. A mini con man come Hawker. He filled all my Import paperwork in for the bike. I then paid €10 bribe to Mauritania Customs. And gave the lad €5 for removing all the hassle. €15 and no stress, to get through both borders ?? Happy at that. Paid for my bike insurance €20 for seven days.( No con there.) Changed some Dehram into Mauritanian currency and was off. It's desert, hotter than the Sahara and very, very windy. It's like riding a bike in an oven with a sand blast machine in your face. Liking that a lot. :)))

I've done about 200 km this side. And as I write, am laid in my tent.
Along side a Mauritanian Police check point . They have been just great. Very friendly and helpful. All in French of course. So im utterlizing their security and also gas cooker. Lol. ( They brought it over when they saw my hexi blocks).

All in all, a great day.  Enjoyed it. Mauritania is noticeable hotter. And the desert here has way more bugs and snakes. Ive seen plenty already.One of the pics is a snake I nearly camped next to. You can see the markings in the sand. " ooow snake trails.....ooooow snake "!!! Check out the caravans, that was someone s home and repair business. And look at the local restaurant. Hhhhmmm....yummmy !!!

Early one in the morning, before the sun gets too hot. Heading for the capital, Nouchkot.

I've ridden 450 km today on a 125cc bike. Through deserts and a 4 km long minefield. It's hard going. It's expensive. And it's dangerous. Northern Mauritania, where I am. Is an Al Queda strong hold. I'm doing this to draw attention to the plight of wounded servicemen. Most of whom have lost arms and legs. If you like what I'm doing. Have a heart and click the Help for Heroes logo. Top right. It's direct to the charity. I personally pay for the costs of this challenge. You can then leave me a little message too. :) I like a few words to have my feel good factor.

Please help me out here, so we can help wounded servicemen.

Will

The Royal Regiment of Gibraltar

"Hi Folks"

And back to speaking good old English. :)))) That's the French and Spanish sections done with. No GPS..just me and the mighty 125 Van Van, heading South and South West. When ever possible, it's been slow back roads all the way. Going through little villages. It's been great. 

Apart from the first day going head to head with a car doing a 360. The Boer stealing my Ravioli and leaving my passport on a photo copy machine. The past 3, 000 kms, has gone to plan. (Let's be right, if you don't have a destination, how can you ever be lost??)

Well here I am on Gibraltar. I went through the Spanish Customs without any hassle.  Unlike everyone going the other way. Big ques, as Policia do their bit to annoy everyone.

Got to say, had I got stopped and they messed with my Tabasco sauce bottles. I guarantee this challenge would have made the news for all the wrong reasons! !!

Presently staying in Devil Tower barracks  Home of the The Royal Regiment of Gibraltar. They have been just great. Really appreciate the help. QRF room last night, but they are getting me a room tonight.As the ferry doesn't leave till Friday. With what's ahead of me, it just feels right to leave British soil.
( Wonder if any Spanish Custom s read this blog.) Lol.

Well Gibraltar has had a lot of new money pumped into it . Off Shore Banking and Casinos I believe. There is now a great mix of new trendy buildings and the old. The place has so much history and identity. A real strong unique identity which is proud of it's British status .I really like it. Going to go for a mooch tonight in the Town. And I never knew it was Tax Free !!! Fags £2.50 !!! ( Will I am the Idiot who got bored....).

Took a few photos along the way. See what you think. Remember I riding solo and unsupported across Europe and Africa.  On a 125 bike. Going through the Sahara Desert and regions where Al Queda are rife.

I'm doing it so YOU  say " golly gosh", put your hand in your pocket. Get your card out and click the Help for Heroes logo top right. Together we can help wounded servicemen have a life again.

Raised £2, 400 so far, with Gift Aid. Let's smash the £3, 000 barrier and do some good.

Will.

You must pay !!!!

TO DONATE. PLEASE CLICK THE HELP FOR HEROES LOGO RIGHT. 

So.....having come off the A68, near Zaragoza and gone on to a dust track. That led to no where. I'd squeezed through this gate, as my road was all fenced off.

In the morning, packed my camp away and let loose the wild horses. 5 minutes later I went to turn off, heading for Tereul.

Well blow me if there wasn't a huge barrier and Toll booth.  Scratching my helmet. ( now then potty minds).
I asked the attendant what was going on. As I wasn't on a Toll Road.

Well. ...it turned out I very much was. Now !! My cross country trek and gate squeezing session. Had put me on the Peage / Toll road that ran parallel !!! The AP 68. I had accidentally gone from a normal road. The A68 to a parallel road, not 500 m away, called the AP 68!!!

He told me, as i didn't have a ticket " You have to pay for use of ALL of the Toll roads " !!! As in a huge $$$ euro number. My arms started to wave ( in Spanish of course ) "but but but...I just came through this gate....off a field "...His head shook...." you must pay for everything. ..or go back "

Clutch in and I was off. Back on to this bloody Toll road. When the traffic went quiet, I went to the central reservation, lifted a chain and wizzed up the other side. Now riding North, in the opposite direction.

I soon realised of course, ' my petrol station ', with the secret gate. Was on the other side of the road. And I couldn't get to it.

So not wanting a 500 odd Euro bill. For accidentally getting on the Toll road. I looked to sneak out. But the road is all fenced in. Thinking outside of the box.  I went to the petrol station opposite mine. Serving North bound traffic.  And it turned out it was a copy of the other one. Complete with gate to a joining field.

Guess what happened next ? Yep...a prode with the Van Van front wheel.  A bit of jiggery pockery. ...and I was out. And back on the A68. And surrounded by Spanish trucks......

I only did a couple of kms, determined to go back lanes.  Heading South West.  One appeared, but wasn't in my 3 euro Spanish map. But off I went. Nothing, and I mean nothing.!!!As far as the eye could see. Just me and the bike. And open Spanish rugged landscape.

It was great.  Loved it. Photo's are below .

I am now just South of Teruel. About 380 kms from San Javier. Where I am meeting Gary Doggett from Basic Training.  He lives over here. Then off to spend money I don't have on the bike. ( Joking.  It was always in the budget. ).

Took today off. To do my laundry.  Some admin. For back home.And well...because I can.
Teruel is nice. Just been wizzing around the historic old town. Looking for a Pharmacy. As a mozzy bit my eye lid. It's a cool look. Check the pics out.

Facebook.  London to Johannesburg. The one with the bike. Click " Like".

Now on a serious note. Im not on a jolly. Im paying for this. And risking everything. There is Al Queda where I am going.  And I don't think that they will be inviting me around for a cuppa. So if you like what I am doing. Please spend 2 minutes with your bank card. Click the Help for Heroes logo and show your support.  It goes directly to them. I don't see or touch a penny. I would like to raise £15, 000.

Please help me do that.

Will