Banjul. The Gambia back to Senegal .

Banjul Port........no ferry timings.Just when its full.!!

I arrived at Banjul port for 5 pm. As I'd been told the ferry was some time after that. But there weren't ever any timings. They simply came and went as they could.  I asked if the ferry was owned by British Rail. But it seemed to confuse the poor Gambian lad. :))

It was about 8 pm by the time we got to the other side. And about 11 km to the Senegal border. And the infamous Senegal Duane. ( They even ripe the Gambians off. Even down to taking cups of suger or mobile phones off them.)

Thought i was heavily laden !!

Ok. Boring bit. I bought the new,westerners only, electronic Visa for Senegal. It's €52. But it only comes as ' Ordinary ' 30 days. Not Multiple Entry. And of course I'd entered Senegal via Mafia HQ Rosso. Coming from Mauritania.Then gone into Gambia to get bike and rider serviced. So officially, my Visa was now void. And my Passavont aka Lasser Passer,for the bike had expired. ( A Visa for the bike in effect. Allows import & export. )

" O good " I thought. At the border I cleared the Gambia Police,Immigration and Customs without drama or bribe.

Then over to the Senegal Bribe Squad. I mean Customs. I was tired, feeling ratty and wasn't in the mood for being ripped off and conned again.

Into see the Police first and gave my best " bonjour " and smile. Handed my passport, with invalid Visa over. Saw Senegal were playing on tv...and said " tres bien...ooo ca bon". ( id now used up 50 % of all my French words. )

Left some lovely little angels behind.Fatima i shall be back ..

The copper was clearly trying to watch it. As he looked at my Visa I gave hime my African Insurance Doc. And turned back to the tv..going " oooow "..( a French ooow ).
Blow me,he stamped me into the country. Missed the previous stamp completely.  And in I went. I changed my Gambian D currency to Senegal CFA. At 400 to 5000 CFA. ( a good rate ).

Now it was Senegal Mafia Customs. I thought about it, looked at my Passavont and thought I can blag this when I leave Senegal, into Mali. As I'd paid,but used the extra 48 hrs I got in Saint Luis. Customs hadn't dated the 48 hrs.

So it was two big,hidden,fingers in the air ,as I rode straight past the Senegal Customs office. And into Senegal.

My rear tail light is out. So I was trying to find a place to camp. I went about 50 km and came across a zoo. It was getting late now,but security camp out. I asked if I could camp inside, but was knocked back.

So I kept going, watching the bizzillion bugs splat on my visor. (Riding at night in Africa, is like someone has a insect Gattling gun zeroed in on you.)

One of my better creations. Corn beef and bread.This is my evening meal wild camping!

I went through and then back to a Gerndarme check point. Asking if I could camp next to their car. He actually spoke English ,checked and agreed. But they opened up the walled school behind their vehicle. I promised to be gone for 6 am. And I was in. Result !!

Internet is getting more rare. And I'm about to enter some very dangerous countries. Im doing all this to highlight the plight of wounded servicemen.

So please click the Help for Heroes logo. Top right and make my efforts worth while.

Gambian Ninja.....Par...and Van. Shall be back lads: Mandinka tribe

Underneath the Lemon tree.

So I got off the ferry in Banjul and straight into darkness and hussle and bustle. ( The Gambian electricity grid, can not support the demands. So power is rotated. One area having it one day, but not the next. )

I had no idea where to head, so I headed for the street lights that were on in the distance. I'd met a couple of Gambians on the ferry, that had been really helpful. They'd given me some cheap motel addresses. But without GPS, and in pitch darkness, it was impossible to find. 

It was very late, about 11 pm,it had been possibly my hardest day on the bike. It had been close to 100 degrees and very humid. I'd been riding for 15 hours. Gone through the border mayhem of Senegal/ The Gambia. And been on the most dangerous, fume filled, filthy ferry ever.Where heards of horned cows, shared the same space as bikes and cars and crowds of heavily laden people.Peeing and pooing everywhere. Whilst knocking into the sides of cars. It stank. We were all outside. P&O, all is forgiven. ;)

But I found a cheap room, with the help of a local and got my head down.( When anyone ' helps' you in Africa. 99% of the time they are making money somehow. Collecting commission from a motel later etc.) But that said, who can blame them.?

Next day I went for a beer. It had been rare in Morroco. Illegal in Mauritania. And who wants to socialise in Senegal ? (Still haven't forgiven the Customs.) Where I met some Christians. And after an hour I'd been invited to a wedding! ! I don't even go to them in the UK !! Non the less,in for penny. Off to a wedding I went. It was held in the tribal language. And occasionally English. I felt very privileged.I was even supplied an ironed shirt. I  gave the tribal language a quick burst in some of the Hyms. :)) went back to the newly weds compound afterwards. Shared a bowl of rice and something leathery looking. Four pairs of hands in the bowl, squashing the rice into balls. (Got to say, I don't find the eating like this easy.) 

On the down side, I did seem to be stood up when the rest of the church was sat down. And sat down when they were stood up .;)))

This is a very quick blog. As finding wi fi and electricity at the same time, has not been easy.

Past week I have serviced the bike and had a sump guard fitted. Lol. Check out the pics.

I moved out of the cheap Guest House and into a Muslim families house. One of five in a compound.

The Mandinka tribe. To sum up.  I've never been treated,nor experienced such hospitality and humanity. We ate out the same bowl,four times a day. I played football with the teenagers. And was constantly surrounded by the small kids. Fatima never far from my side,pushing the other kids away. Talk about heart melting stuff. Little angels. An old lady in the compound telling me " your wife ". Pointing at Fatima. Lol. Suits me, im 45 and she's 4 !!!! ( Might finally win an argument with a female. )

My nights have been spent underneath the Lemon tree with all the men in the compound.Where there is a distinctive Jamacan theme . Wink wink. Very chilled. Alcohol isn't that popular and of course isn't meant to be drank. But Paa and Van do goto a bar a couple of times a week. But mainly its underneath the Lemon tree till 2 am smoking. Listening to reggae music. 

Last night everyone from the compound had a party for me. About twenty five people, at a guess.I bought ten chickens, salade, potatoes and fanta for the kids. As a "thank you" for letting me live with them for the past week.Check the pics. Great night.

I'm leaving the Gambia right now. And am expecting problems with the Senegal Customs. As my Visa isn't multiple entry. But maybe bribery can work for me this time.

Loads of pics. Sorry this is short.  Rushing before wi fi cuts out.

From Dakar. Senegal to Banjul. The Gambia.

The Mali Embassy in Dakar were brilliant. They really helped me out. Visa is officially 15,000 CFA. But you only get a receipt for 10,000 CFA. I'm sure you can work that one out.

It's meant to take 48 hrs,but I explained my bike's Pasavont was running out,and they did it that day. Mali is in the middle of a bloody civil war.Well armed  Muslims wanting to impose Sharia Law on one side, Government forces on the other. Backed by the French Army,as it was previously a French colony.

I could have gone direct towards Mali,but had always planned to go to The Gambia, to the south. There I could get my bike serviced and fixed if needs be. A previous British colony,they are pro and speak good old English. A major pit stop if you like. Before I push into some very poor and dangerous countries. Where infrastructure is even less.

Visa in passport,I followed the very poor and car crammed coastal road out of Dakar. A city that is chocker block full of people and polutution. And a stulid taxi driver drove into my bike. Trapping my leg and nearly knocking me and the bike over. I'm sure he didn't care I punched his bonnet, as their wasnt a panel on the car that was straight.

I simply wanted to get as my kms under my belt before dark. Leaving Dakar at 4 pm I eventually arrived at Mboor. Not far away,about a 100 kms south.Nowhere to pitch a tent,I reluctantly paid for a cheap Auberge.

Next morning, yesterday, was going to always be another big day. Remember I don't have gps. As Suzuki GB pulled their sponsorship. As I shared a story about an ex Taliban fighter allowed live in the UK. Who was given a free house for him,his four wives and children. Who subsequently recruited and trained British Muslims for acts of terror !! I shared the published story. And lost all Suzuki GB support. Common sense, national security and freedom of speech spring to mind.

So I have had to save the Gps money,£430 and use it to getting me and the bike to Johannesburg. Thank you Suzuki GB for making my life infinitely harder and more dangerous! !! But im sure you're loving the free publicity you are getting.

I left Mboor at 9 am. Through the usual villages and towns. And then through this large region of swamp,come little islands.  All connected by the road I was on. Wild cows with big horns, were a common sight.

The temperature and humidity high,I pulled over a number of times to take in water from my Camel Bak.( back slung 3 lt water bladder. )
Twice guys on mopeds stopped to see if I was ok. And to have a chat. And both times in pigeon English. ( A good sign I was nearing The Gambia. )

The road connecting these islands was deserted. But in very good condition. And then. ....and then...the road ended !!! Water...about a mile of it,till the next island!!! Oooops !!! O for GPS.

On que I saw a fisherman. And four locals getting into a boat. A boat about two feet wide and fifteen feet long. 3000 CFA later, we'd got my bike into the boat. As it tipped heavily to the left and right. And off we went to the the next island. Come main land. Check the pics and video.

From the fishing village the other side,the road went from good tarmac,to red clay. This last part was a good 70 km off road and 100 in total.

Stood up on my pegs I was wizzing around the pot holes . The Van Van coping with all I asked of it. Yes,occasionally the rear shocker bottoming out. But it is a road bike. Forget the knobbly front tyre. This bike has just 12 hp and is designed to pop to the local shops. My bike was a star. My upper body felt like id been beasted in the gym. Big style.

I stopped outside a village of huts. And WOW.....kids came from nowhere and everywhere. 24 in total. I was surrounded. One was about 9. And amazingly spoke English. I asked the name of his village.  He laughed and said " all one family " !!!!
His parents definitely do not have jobs.

Onwards to the Senegal and The Gambia border. A 200 Gambia $$ bribe and I was in. Then it was 11 km to the ' ferry'. It's the river come sea that you cross. Takes over an hour. My bike was last on. 6 "from back of the boat.ahum....no barrier, just an edge and the sea. With a heard of those cows with horns not two feet away !!!

I watched as they banged into the old Range Rover next to me. I didn't let go of the  Van Van for the whole journey. As the heardsman smashed his stick into their heads. Keeping my bike on the ferry and not the sea.

Now in Banjul port. No tail light and no sfreet lights. I pushed on looking for a place to kip. I've sorted a place for 500 $ a night.(10 quid).

Called the British Embassy 34 times,without an answer. Doesn't it make you feel proud ?? I was expecting some prearranged help. Never mind.

Ok. Waffled on. Check the pics. Facebook London to Johannesburg and watch the video. I can't upload vids on mobile Blogger

All good. Servicing the bike and getting some good food into me.

Will

Senegal

I left Saint Luis yesterday morning, leaving Pelican Auberge. Which I recommend. Over inflated prices because you are a rich white man ? Yep. The camp site was full with a Dutch Rally. But the Pelican staff said a room was 20,000 CFA. I'd done my homework and knew it to be 10,000 CFA. I said it was too much and offered 7,000. And surprise, surprise, the room was 10,000 CFA really.  See what I mean ? Multiply that by every single purchase.

Whilst in Saint Luis,I had to find the Senegal Customs Office. And extend my bikes Pasavont. So I had time to have my Mali Visa processed. And take some photos for you guys. Cost? 7000CFA. And a morning waiting. Not too bad.

Walked about the town.  Took photos of the boats being built outside the Pelican and the local taxi rank.lol Check out the Renualt 12's are they ? I like the people, always saying " bonjour",to me.;)

Whilst about 255 km from Saint Luis to Dakar is about right for me in a day,on the 125 Van Van. I have done close to 450 km. Trying to clear the Al Queda pro north Mauritania. But Senegal is very humid. The air, as I rode, was actually hot. I went through 4 or 5 litres of water. My Camel Bak now tasting ok. As I flushed it through with hot water from the shower. It had black bactetia in the pipe. Not a nice flavour.

The road to Dakar of Paris Dakar fame was good.  Not many pot holes. The small towns all looked the same. Women sat under one tree. The men sat under another. Sand was where you'd expect a pavement.  And there was always an Orange mobile shop.lol. But it rarely actually sold phones. Work that one out. See photo.

Kids waved as I touted my horn through the villages. And would surround me when I stopped for water and to have five. Always asking for " caduex",a gift. All smiling and happy. The best toy being a car tyre and stick. And our kids moan if they don't have the latest PS 3 game !!

The bike is well due a service now. And has a noise at the rear and slightly louder tappets. I'd always planned a four day stop in The Gambia, as it's English speaking.  And would be able to explain myself properly.  Hopefully the British Embassy will be able to help me out. In desperate need of compo,hexi blocks or a duel fuel cooker, that works. Puri tabs and a beer !!

In Dakar as I write this.  The camp site was closed when I got here at 7 pm last night. So had to pay for a hotel, that I can ill afford.

Went to the Mali Embassy today, to arrange my Visa.  It should be 48 hrs,but I explained my bikes Pasavont ran out tomorrow. ( its like a Visa for the bike.)

Very helpful and without a bribe,it will be ready at 4 pm today. Result!! 40 hrs quicker than normal. Cost ? 15,000 CFA .But I guess business isn't great at the moment.  As Mali is in civil war. Armed Muslims refusing ' man made laws ' and imposing Sharia Law. The French Army is there at the moment. So we shall see how that goes. I believe the south is relatively safe. But there are no guarantees.

Riding in some of the cities here is a just mental. No rules,none. People just walk out, some with pots on their heads. Some hearding goats and donkeys. Traffic lights mean nothing. Lanes and pavement s are just guidelines. Man holes with no covers. The list goes on.

On my way back from the embassy to the hotel. A taxi slowly pulled out and hit me. Trapping my leg between his bumper and my bike. The bike now at 40 degrees, as I struggled to hold it up. I punched his bonnet and asked him nicely to move back. To release my leg. He didn't.  Didn't even get out the car. Whole different rule book here. But not surprised. Just got to roll with it.

Off to get some food. Lost a fair bit of weight. Got to look after myself.  Even if I am number four of priorities. ( water,petrol,bike and then me.)

All is well, slept for England last night. Broke £4,000 with Gift Aid yesterday. But please, if you like what I'm doing.  Click the Help for Heroes logo,top right. All this is so you will donate to help wounded servicemen.

You can find me on Facebook.  London to Johannesburg. Click LIKE. And get the updates.

Will.

Africa. Two sides. The bad

Thought long and hard about this blog. If I'd written this last night, there would have been a lot of ##@$! In it.

Ok. For the most part the people in general have been intrigued and friendly. Language barrier aside. I get saluted everywhere on the bike. Apparently it is a mark of respect. I don't know if this is an Islamic custom or regional. Most of the countries in this neck of the woods are Islamic. A Muslim told me " they respect and like you are on a bike and alone."

But,I am also seen as the golden goose. Almost nothing has a price on it. It's down to the shop keeper and what he thinks he can get. So I have been well and truly over charged about 70 % of the time. When you don't know anyone and can't speak various versions of Arabic, what can you do ? To counter, I have written down numbers in French and learnt about twenty new words. And this has helped a lot.

Ahhh Rosso !!!! I've read and read about all I could about this challenge.  I ended up taking 15 weeks off work, engrossed in it. Getting sponsorship from companies, learning HTML for the blog come website. ( this one ).And reading horror stories about Rosso. The border crossing from Mauritania to Senegal.

So I want to simply put in writing for other ' Overlanders ',my experience.

First off. There are regular fixed Gerndarme Police check points. Where you need to provide your passport or a photocopy. Along with where you are going, coming from and Make of vehicle. Etc.

After I'd had my 'good' African moment yesterday. Sat in the house drinking tea. I rode 40 km or so and came to a check point. The police did the usual with my passport.  Then handed me a mobile. I didn't understand a word the guy said. Just heard " ok. Come to me ".

20 km later I arrived at another Gerndarme check point. A smart man approached and said " William "?
He showed me his ID card ' Transit National'.Asked for my passport,  Driving Licence and V5 log book. He then got into his car and said come with me. I thought to his office 30 meters away, or similar. But no!!
Warp factor 50 blasting down the road to Rosso. Like something off a film. Him a lot quicker than me,in his Mercedes. But having to slow down for scatter bomb like pot holes. And me flat out, bobing and weaving left side,right side, off the road,on the road. " oooooow sh#t ",I thought.

We came to another Gerndarme check point. Where I put my bike in front of his car and snatched the passport and docs back off him. Yet the Police said " he good man ".

Relived,I followed. But now he had to go at my bikes pace. Not his.Into Rosso port. (The border is a ferry crossing a river. )
The port is like a small army camp. With armed soldiers at the gate and inside. It was a hive of activity, three European cars to one side. I didn't see any non black people though. Everyone queuing in various lines,within the compound.

Mr ' National Transit ', took me to buy a ferry ticket. I was free,but the bike was 5,000 Og.( £10 ish ). I believe this to be the correct price. I was then charged ' tax ' of 2,000 Og. And 4,000 Og for Mauritania Customs. Then the scam really kicked in. I had to buy insurance from the agent in Mauritania for Senegal. And he just happened to be stood next to my bike. Captain Transit shouted him over. Cost for my 125 for 5 days in Senegal ?? ( its just over a 100 £ for a year in uk.)...

Are you ready....5 days insurance, for a country where bikes look like recycled bed frames and have no number plates. 39,500 Og!!!!!! Best part of £100.!!!

I now started to loose my mo jo.I had six of them around me. All talking at the same time. Telling me if I didn't pay,I couldn't get on the ferry. I told them I had insurance for Mauritania and would buy Senegal insurance, once there. It wasn't my job to personally put there kids through private education. Which led to me saying that their system was corrupt. And the people they effect the most,are their own. As it puts people off going to this country. To which Mauritania Customs ( what have they got to do with insurance for Senegal ). Said my country was racist. He got turned down for a Visa,because he was black. I told him there must be 10 million non whites in the UK. And if he wanted in,goto San Gat refugee camp.

Eventually I paid 16,900 for my insurance. Not 39,500. And got 2 months for several countries on route. Not 5 days, Senegal only.

Then Captain Transit pipes up with " I want my commission "!! When he'd told me he worked for the government and it was free,for my safety. I gave him $5 in $1 's. And said enough is enough.

Scam went to phase two now. An innocent engish speaking by stander comes over on que. He is supposedly from The Gambia. He says they are bad people. And we go on the 3 minutes ferry together. He tells me it will cost €80 to get through Senegal Police and Customs. To cover bribes and my bikes Import tax. I know this figure to be 2,500 CFA in the week and 5,000 CFA on weekends. (Passavont )
Cut the story slightly short,as red mist is desending. My bike was held by Senegal Customs till I paid. The ' innocent by stander ',took me to the bank. Now of course they have me over a barrel. Then trys to tell me the taxi man,in his Peugeot 405 that looked like he'd had it crushed already. Wanted €20 for 15 km round trip.I argued over that,but paid about €13. Now back at HQ Scam Control Senegal. Just about to get my passport back,docs and bike. There is a problem. My bike is over 10 years old. I pointed out it had dow 6 or 7,000 km to get here. And was in better shape than anything I'd seen on the road so far. But...guess what ? He wanted ' something '. I was tiered by this point. Annoyed. Agreaved. And said #uck Senegal ...I will go back to Mauritania. We exchanged stares and a few more words.

The outcome was $15 more and I could leave. Baring in mind,I'd already paid €52 for my Visa on line. Which is e mail only for non Africans.

Various currencies in that scamathon. For anyone going to cross at Rosso....DON'T !!!  Goto Dialma. But they don't have the technology to accept the new electronic Visas. Nobody seems to know how to avoid Rosso now. And I guess, that's the whole point.

From Gerndarme to ' National Transit '. Mauritania insurance, Customs and everything on the Senegal side. It's one big, all in it together SCAM !!!

So. The two sides to Africa. Everything I'd read was true. And now,at least for the time being, unavoidable.

My budget simply can't take that sort of hit. I've said all along. Whatever this challenge throws at me. I will beat it. Only running out of money or death, will stop me.

Tomorrow I leave Saint Luis for Dakar. To arrange my Visa for Mali. I'm going to The Gambia next,but couldn't find 100% info on getting a Mali Visa in Banjul. Should take 24 hrs to get Mali Visa in Dakar. And it's why I had to extend my bike transit, from 48 hrs to 96. And hopefully get some pics on route for you guys.

All is well. Lost a good bit of weight already. Fried luncheon meat and bread sheds the pounds ladies. :)

Sorry it's not a happy blog. But just sharing my journey as I see it. Really looking forward to The Gambia and being able to speak freely again.  In English. :)))))))

Going to the British Embassy.  As The SSM at the The Royal Regiment of Gibraltar has e mailed them. Hopefully they might help me with some compo,hexi blocks and puri tabs. Maybe even know where I can get the bike serviced. And cheap bed for 3 or 4 nights.

Not many photos yet. As been doing admin. Cleaning kit. Going to Customs. And other behind the scenes stuff. That isn't too interesting.

Take two minutes and click the Help for Heroes logo. Only £64 from £4,000 now. Let me blaze your name over the internet. Make a difference.  Make a donation. :))

Will.