From Dakar. Senegal to Banjul. The Gambia.

The Mali Embassy in Dakar were brilliant. They really helped me out. Visa is officially 15,000 CFA. But you only get a receipt for 10,000 CFA. I'm sure you can work that one out.

It's meant to take 48 hrs,but I explained my bike's Pasavont was running out,and they did it that day. Mali is in the middle of a bloody civil war.Well armed  Muslims wanting to impose Sharia Law on one side, Government forces on the other. Backed by the French Army,as it was previously a French colony.

I could have gone direct towards Mali,but had always planned to go to The Gambia, to the south. There I could get my bike serviced and fixed if needs be. A previous British colony,they are pro and speak good old English. A major pit stop if you like. Before I push into some very poor and dangerous countries. Where infrastructure is even less.

Visa in passport,I followed the very poor and car crammed coastal road out of Dakar. A city that is chocker block full of people and polutution. And a stulid taxi driver drove into my bike. Trapping my leg and nearly knocking me and the bike over. I'm sure he didn't care I punched his bonnet, as their wasnt a panel on the car that was straight.

I simply wanted to get as my kms under my belt before dark. Leaving Dakar at 4 pm I eventually arrived at Mboor. Not far away,about a 100 kms south.Nowhere to pitch a tent,I reluctantly paid for a cheap Auberge.

Next morning, yesterday, was going to always be another big day. Remember I don't have gps. As Suzuki GB pulled their sponsorship. As I shared a story about an ex Taliban fighter allowed live in the UK. Who was given a free house for him,his four wives and children. Who subsequently recruited and trained British Muslims for acts of terror !! I shared the published story. And lost all Suzuki GB support. Common sense, national security and freedom of speech spring to mind.

So I have had to save the Gps money,£430 and use it to getting me and the bike to Johannesburg. Thank you Suzuki GB for making my life infinitely harder and more dangerous! !! But im sure you're loving the free publicity you are getting.

I left Mboor at 9 am. Through the usual villages and towns. And then through this large region of swamp,come little islands.  All connected by the road I was on. Wild cows with big horns, were a common sight.

The temperature and humidity high,I pulled over a number of times to take in water from my Camel Bak.( back slung 3 lt water bladder. )
Twice guys on mopeds stopped to see if I was ok. And to have a chat. And both times in pigeon English. ( A good sign I was nearing The Gambia. )

The road connecting these islands was deserted. But in very good condition. And then. ....and then...the road ended !!! Water...about a mile of it,till the next island!!! Oooops !!! O for GPS.

On que I saw a fisherman. And four locals getting into a boat. A boat about two feet wide and fifteen feet long. 3000 CFA later, we'd got my bike into the boat. As it tipped heavily to the left and right. And off we went to the the next island. Come main land. Check the pics and video.

From the fishing village the other side,the road went from good tarmac,to red clay. This last part was a good 70 km off road and 100 in total.

Stood up on my pegs I was wizzing around the pot holes . The Van Van coping with all I asked of it. Yes,occasionally the rear shocker bottoming out. But it is a road bike. Forget the knobbly front tyre. This bike has just 12 hp and is designed to pop to the local shops. My bike was a star. My upper body felt like id been beasted in the gym. Big style.

I stopped outside a village of huts. And WOW.....kids came from nowhere and everywhere. 24 in total. I was surrounded. One was about 9. And amazingly spoke English. I asked the name of his village.  He laughed and said " all one family " !!!!
His parents definitely do not have jobs.

Onwards to the Senegal and The Gambia border. A 200 Gambia $$ bribe and I was in. Then it was 11 km to the ' ferry'. It's the river come sea that you cross. Takes over an hour. My bike was last on. 6 "from back of the boat.ahum....no barrier, just an edge and the sea. With a heard of those cows with horns not two feet away !!!

I watched as they banged into the old Range Rover next to me. I didn't let go of the  Van Van for the whole journey. As the heardsman smashed his stick into their heads. Keeping my bike on the ferry and not the sea.

Now in Banjul port. No tail light and no sfreet lights. I pushed on looking for a place to kip. I've sorted a place for 500 $ a night.(10 quid).

Called the British Embassy 34 times,without an answer. Doesn't it make you feel proud ?? I was expecting some prearranged help. Never mind.

Ok. Waffled on. Check the pics. Facebook London to Johannesburg and watch the video. I can't upload vids on mobile Blogger

All good. Servicing the bike and getting some good food into me.

Will

Senegal

I left Saint Luis yesterday morning, leaving Pelican Auberge. Which I recommend. Over inflated prices because you are a rich white man ? Yep. The camp site was full with a Dutch Rally. But the Pelican staff said a room was 20,000 CFA. I'd done my homework and knew it to be 10,000 CFA. I said it was too much and offered 7,000. And surprise, surprise, the room was 10,000 CFA really.  See what I mean ? Multiply that by every single purchase.

Whilst in Saint Luis,I had to find the Senegal Customs Office. And extend my bikes Pasavont. So I had time to have my Mali Visa processed. And take some photos for you guys. Cost? 7000CFA. And a morning waiting. Not too bad.

Walked about the town.  Took photos of the boats being built outside the Pelican and the local taxi rank.lol Check out the Renualt 12's are they ? I like the people, always saying " bonjour",to me.;)

Whilst about 255 km from Saint Luis to Dakar is about right for me in a day,on the 125 Van Van. I have done close to 450 km. Trying to clear the Al Queda pro north Mauritania. But Senegal is very humid. The air, as I rode, was actually hot. I went through 4 or 5 litres of water. My Camel Bak now tasting ok. As I flushed it through with hot water from the shower. It had black bactetia in the pipe. Not a nice flavour.

The road to Dakar of Paris Dakar fame was good.  Not many pot holes. The small towns all looked the same. Women sat under one tree. The men sat under another. Sand was where you'd expect a pavement.  And there was always an Orange mobile shop.lol. But it rarely actually sold phones. Work that one out. See photo.

Kids waved as I touted my horn through the villages. And would surround me when I stopped for water and to have five. Always asking for " caduex",a gift. All smiling and happy. The best toy being a car tyre and stick. And our kids moan if they don't have the latest PS 3 game !!

The bike is well due a service now. And has a noise at the rear and slightly louder tappets. I'd always planned a four day stop in The Gambia, as it's English speaking.  And would be able to explain myself properly.  Hopefully the British Embassy will be able to help me out. In desperate need of compo,hexi blocks or a duel fuel cooker, that works. Puri tabs and a beer !!

In Dakar as I write this.  The camp site was closed when I got here at 7 pm last night. So had to pay for a hotel, that I can ill afford.

Went to the Mali Embassy today, to arrange my Visa.  It should be 48 hrs,but I explained my bikes Pasavont ran out tomorrow. ( its like a Visa for the bike.)

Very helpful and without a bribe,it will be ready at 4 pm today. Result!! 40 hrs quicker than normal. Cost ? 15,000 CFA .But I guess business isn't great at the moment.  As Mali is in civil war. Armed Muslims refusing ' man made laws ' and imposing Sharia Law. The French Army is there at the moment. So we shall see how that goes. I believe the south is relatively safe. But there are no guarantees.

Riding in some of the cities here is a just mental. No rules,none. People just walk out, some with pots on their heads. Some hearding goats and donkeys. Traffic lights mean nothing. Lanes and pavement s are just guidelines. Man holes with no covers. The list goes on.

On my way back from the embassy to the hotel. A taxi slowly pulled out and hit me. Trapping my leg between his bumper and my bike. The bike now at 40 degrees, as I struggled to hold it up. I punched his bonnet and asked him nicely to move back. To release my leg. He didn't.  Didn't even get out the car. Whole different rule book here. But not surprised. Just got to roll with it.

Off to get some food. Lost a fair bit of weight. Got to look after myself.  Even if I am number four of priorities. ( water,petrol,bike and then me.)

All is well, slept for England last night. Broke £4,000 with Gift Aid yesterday. But please, if you like what I'm doing.  Click the Help for Heroes logo,top right. All this is so you will donate to help wounded servicemen.

You can find me on Facebook.  London to Johannesburg. Click LIKE. And get the updates.

Will.

Africa. Two sides. The bad

Thought long and hard about this blog. If I'd written this last night, there would have been a lot of ##@$! In it.

Ok. For the most part the people in general have been intrigued and friendly. Language barrier aside. I get saluted everywhere on the bike. Apparently it is a mark of respect. I don't know if this is an Islamic custom or regional. Most of the countries in this neck of the woods are Islamic. A Muslim told me " they respect and like you are on a bike and alone."

But,I am also seen as the golden goose. Almost nothing has a price on it. It's down to the shop keeper and what he thinks he can get. So I have been well and truly over charged about 70 % of the time. When you don't know anyone and can't speak various versions of Arabic, what can you do ? To counter, I have written down numbers in French and learnt about twenty new words. And this has helped a lot.

Ahhh Rosso !!!! I've read and read about all I could about this challenge.  I ended up taking 15 weeks off work, engrossed in it. Getting sponsorship from companies, learning HTML for the blog come website. ( this one ).And reading horror stories about Rosso. The border crossing from Mauritania to Senegal.

So I want to simply put in writing for other ' Overlanders ',my experience.

First off. There are regular fixed Gerndarme Police check points. Where you need to provide your passport or a photocopy. Along with where you are going, coming from and Make of vehicle. Etc.

After I'd had my 'good' African moment yesterday. Sat in the house drinking tea. I rode 40 km or so and came to a check point. The police did the usual with my passport.  Then handed me a mobile. I didn't understand a word the guy said. Just heard " ok. Come to me ".

20 km later I arrived at another Gerndarme check point. A smart man approached and said " William "?
He showed me his ID card ' Transit National'.Asked for my passport,  Driving Licence and V5 log book. He then got into his car and said come with me. I thought to his office 30 meters away, or similar. But no!!
Warp factor 50 blasting down the road to Rosso. Like something off a film. Him a lot quicker than me,in his Mercedes. But having to slow down for scatter bomb like pot holes. And me flat out, bobing and weaving left side,right side, off the road,on the road. " oooooow sh#t ",I thought.

We came to another Gerndarme check point. Where I put my bike in front of his car and snatched the passport and docs back off him. Yet the Police said " he good man ".

Relived,I followed. But now he had to go at my bikes pace. Not his.Into Rosso port. (The border is a ferry crossing a river. )
The port is like a small army camp. With armed soldiers at the gate and inside. It was a hive of activity, three European cars to one side. I didn't see any non black people though. Everyone queuing in various lines,within the compound.

Mr ' National Transit ', took me to buy a ferry ticket. I was free,but the bike was 5,000 Og.( £10 ish ). I believe this to be the correct price. I was then charged ' tax ' of 2,000 Og. And 4,000 Og for Mauritania Customs. Then the scam really kicked in. I had to buy insurance from the agent in Mauritania for Senegal. And he just happened to be stood next to my bike. Captain Transit shouted him over. Cost for my 125 for 5 days in Senegal ?? ( its just over a 100 £ for a year in uk.)...

Are you ready....5 days insurance, for a country where bikes look like recycled bed frames and have no number plates. 39,500 Og!!!!!! Best part of £100.!!!

I now started to loose my mo jo.I had six of them around me. All talking at the same time. Telling me if I didn't pay,I couldn't get on the ferry. I told them I had insurance for Mauritania and would buy Senegal insurance, once there. It wasn't my job to personally put there kids through private education. Which led to me saying that their system was corrupt. And the people they effect the most,are their own. As it puts people off going to this country. To which Mauritania Customs ( what have they got to do with insurance for Senegal ). Said my country was racist. He got turned down for a Visa,because he was black. I told him there must be 10 million non whites in the UK. And if he wanted in,goto San Gat refugee camp.

Eventually I paid 16,900 for my insurance. Not 39,500. And got 2 months for several countries on route. Not 5 days, Senegal only.

Then Captain Transit pipes up with " I want my commission "!! When he'd told me he worked for the government and it was free,for my safety. I gave him $5 in $1 's. And said enough is enough.

Scam went to phase two now. An innocent engish speaking by stander comes over on que. He is supposedly from The Gambia. He says they are bad people. And we go on the 3 minutes ferry together. He tells me it will cost €80 to get through Senegal Police and Customs. To cover bribes and my bikes Import tax. I know this figure to be 2,500 CFA in the week and 5,000 CFA on weekends. (Passavont )
Cut the story slightly short,as red mist is desending. My bike was held by Senegal Customs till I paid. The ' innocent by stander ',took me to the bank. Now of course they have me over a barrel. Then trys to tell me the taxi man,in his Peugeot 405 that looked like he'd had it crushed already. Wanted €20 for 15 km round trip.I argued over that,but paid about €13. Now back at HQ Scam Control Senegal. Just about to get my passport back,docs and bike. There is a problem. My bike is over 10 years old. I pointed out it had dow 6 or 7,000 km to get here. And was in better shape than anything I'd seen on the road so far. But...guess what ? He wanted ' something '. I was tiered by this point. Annoyed. Agreaved. And said #uck Senegal ...I will go back to Mauritania. We exchanged stares and a few more words.

The outcome was $15 more and I could leave. Baring in mind,I'd already paid €52 for my Visa on line. Which is e mail only for non Africans.

Various currencies in that scamathon. For anyone going to cross at Rosso....DON'T !!!  Goto Dialma. But they don't have the technology to accept the new electronic Visas. Nobody seems to know how to avoid Rosso now. And I guess, that's the whole point.

From Gerndarme to ' National Transit '. Mauritania insurance, Customs and everything on the Senegal side. It's one big, all in it together SCAM !!!

So. The two sides to Africa. Everything I'd read was true. And now,at least for the time being, unavoidable.

My budget simply can't take that sort of hit. I've said all along. Whatever this challenge throws at me. I will beat it. Only running out of money or death, will stop me.

Tomorrow I leave Saint Luis for Dakar. To arrange my Visa for Mali. I'm going to The Gambia next,but couldn't find 100% info on getting a Mali Visa in Banjul. Should take 24 hrs to get Mali Visa in Dakar. And it's why I had to extend my bike transit, from 48 hrs to 96. And hopefully get some pics on route for you guys.

All is well. Lost a good bit of weight already. Fried luncheon meat and bread sheds the pounds ladies. :)

Sorry it's not a happy blog. But just sharing my journey as I see it. Really looking forward to The Gambia and being able to speak freely again.  In English. :)))))))

Going to the British Embassy.  As The SSM at the The Royal Regiment of Gibraltar has e mailed them. Hopefully they might help me with some compo,hexi blocks and puri tabs. Maybe even know where I can get the bike serviced. And cheap bed for 3 or 4 nights.

Not many photos yet. As been doing admin. Cleaning kit. Going to Customs. And other behind the scenes stuff. That isn't too interesting.

Take two minutes and click the Help for Heroes logo. Only £64 from £4,000 now. Let me blaze your name over the internet. Make a difference.  Make a donation. :))

Will.

Africa. Two sides. The good.

I left a flooded Nouakchoot, Mauritania, two days ago. A good foot of rain fell over night. Le foot,for those of you who are European. :)

My tent is getting well worn,I've been sleeping in it 95% of the past 6 or 7 weeks. It has the odd hole in it now. Which I have patched up,as best i can, using my puncture repair kit.But under those conditions, it did leak a bit. My sleeping bag getting wet and some kit. Then the sand of course making a lovely comfortable combination. But that doesn't bother me,there is always a solution.

The storm was a complete freak of nature and almost unheard of. ( check the photos. Not easy to ride off road, in water and take photos.  But gave it a go. ) :))

The 'road' had turned into a mud bath. Cars stuck everywhere. My back end wanted to spin to the front. In the end I went for the flatest ground. Which happen to be in the middle of the water. Just went for it at about 15 mph. Not wanting the water to cover the electrics. Worked fine and I got into the town.

Floods we have all seen. But in a 3 rd world country ? They couldn't cope. Simply a lack of infrastructure. The water was above the curbs and you now couldn't see all the pot holes. So I decided to ride on the pavement and gently drop off the curbs. I don't have a sump guard, but will sort that in the English speaking Gambia. :)))

Traffic was mental, and there wasn't one single road sign for Senegal or Rosso. But used my poor French to ask. Totally drenched, I decided to try out the Islamic belief of ' helping a stranger '.

After some 100 km I pulled over and into a tiny rural village. Half a dozen traditional tents,goats and chickens. I asked if I could camp the night. To the oldest male I could see. He noded and off I went to pitch the tent. Not 5 minutes later,a smartly dressed Muslim, in traditional clothes approached. Speaking in English, ( wow ), he asked if I had a problem ? I explained the rain etc. Turned out he was just passing and saw me. He told me it was important for Muslims to look after a stranger in need. And no problem with staying in the village. He returned to the slightly bemused villagers. Where upon they all prayed together.  Im guessing, for me. How privileged was I ??

What it gave me was a chance to dry my kit by a fire. Dry ish,some food and a brew. All I need. Sorted. :)

Following morning I said my thank yous. And headed to the notorious Rosso border crossing,to Senegal.

I rode for another 100 km or so and decided to test the locals response, when I stopped for water,in their villages. Everyone was inquuzatative and friendly. One young lad spoke to me in English. Two on the trot !!! The other kids all were scared of my camera. (See covered faces on pics )

He invited me to tea at his house. Loving the local fused brew. I was up for it in a flash. We sat on the floor in his house. Speaking English, as he told of his opinions of his country. It's problems and his desire to join his brother in America. What a pleasure and privilege.

Two sides to Africa. I've actually edited this. But it's that sort of experience, that is my payment in all this.

You will read in the next blog, the other dark side.

All good with me. Bike has been asked to do what some say is impossible for a commuter 125. Yer here we are in Saint Louis.  Senegal.

Have a heart and donate by clicking the Help for Heroes logo. Top right.

Will.

Nouckhout

Update. Just got to the capital. Did 285 km today. Hot, humid and solitry.Knackered !! For the distance, the most tiering ride so far.But i found a place to camp, right on the beach. I had expected to pitch up at a Gerndarme check point. This place is run by a French guy, called Nicolas. Food is very pricey. More than European prices, but it's only €5 to camp. The beach is white sand and has few people using it. By all accounts, wealthy Mauritanians and Embassy personal come here.

Apparently the capital is an absolute dump. Rubbish everywhere and full of mosquitos. So I'd say I got very lucky. What a contrast. 99% of the country lives in either home made wooden shaks or nomadic tents. Yet here I could be in Barbados.

Just had a German guy come over. We spoke at the Morrocan border. Small world.  He sells cars from Germany in Mauritania. Makes a profit and then lives the good life in northern Morocco.

There seems to be a little industry doing this. In particular selling in The Gambia. Where there isn't any import documents. Going to take a look at it myself.

Well, long day. Very humid. Drank 4 litres of water today, whilest riding. All good though. :) Going to have a quick swim in the morning. :)))

Speak soon.

Will