Up bright and breezy, with a view to an early start and definitely a day light finish.
Working on the principle that these illegal road blocks will go onto late into the night. The bad guys will be having a lay in. So I set off from Pobe,early doors. some 10 km from the Nigerian border.
Not 7 km later it was dark red dusty track, as a road. And slap my thigh with blissful glee,I had a puncture. A six inch nail, used on the illegal road blocks to stop the traffic. Was hanging out of my rear tyre. " Gosh..good ", I said.
Bike un rideable and now in the jungle, miles from anywhere. And I doubt if the AA would respond. Time to get my thinking cap on. My bike doesn't have a centre stand. Making taking the rear wheel off alone, somewhat of a challenge.
A long story short. A local tribesmen turned up. Followed by three more. Followed by half a school, all dressed in brown uniform. Between us we got the wheel off,changed the inner tube and got it blown up. An hour of sweating my bits off. Now with a crowd of about twenty around me and the bike. Strange. Not one word of English and not one word of French was said. They only spoke tribal.... photos below.
"...onwards and upwards Rodney..."
Through Benin Customs without any hassle. Now for Nigeria. With fingers crossed, that choosing a remote boarder crossing was the right thing to do.
Into Nigeria Immigration, a hut on the left side. Where I was grilled about my visit. Despite having a visa. Until the penny dropped. ( I now always explain I've ridden my bike from England. It throws them off any bribery game.) Passport all stamped up,they even asked to have photos next to me. Result. Then over to Health Desk,to show my Yellow Fever card. ( Another small hut.)Then I was called to the SS Office. To which I said " sounds about right ". Thankfully he had no idea. SS, means Secret Service. Had a quick chat and some more forms. Then over to Nigeria Customs.
It started all strict and official. Scrutinised everything. So glad I bought new bike insurance. All my baggage off the bike. Into the building, checked for drugs and weapons. 2 hrs worth. The head of Narcotics being also present. After I explained my story,it all changed again. Back to asking for photos. The head of Narcotics taking a wrist band off and giving it to me ! Which was a great gesture.They even forgot to charge me for my Lassier Passer. Which should be 5,000 N. Result !!!
And into Nigeria. ..remember I don't have the luxury of gps. Due to Suzuki GB. So just my home made map. As usual.
A typical scene: By the road side,you can clearly see large logs,lots of them. A hut,some string running over the road. Attached to a wooden board,with a hundred or so nails sticking out. 12 times I went through illegal road blocks. Each time I waited for a car to go ahead and as it slowed down, for the road block,id over take down the centre line. The car or truck obscuring the view of the ' Vigilante' gang. I'm sure at least four times I went through Official road blocks. They had uniforms and were shouting, but me "no comprendo".
"...onwards and upwards Rodney. ."
The road at times was terrible. It had been raining and I soon was filthy. Pretty sure i was running parallel to the road I actually wanted. Mine was red and muddy. It should have been tarmac. A number of times locals shouted at me. And it didn't seem to smell of roses and love. But I pushed on through the jungle until I hit a tarmac road. Then asked someone for Abeokuta. The bike and I now covered in red dirt. And I like that a lot !
I got to my first pit stop at about 4 pm and found a basic Guesthouse. 3,000N. Just north of Abeokuta. The family were Muslims and very helpful. The power is intermittent. Which means the water is. A problem across Africa. Photo of me in a bucket. Having a ' shower '.The room was good. Made acceptable, as the family owning it, were so nice. ( I was actually offered the daughter by the mother.Now that's service!!. ) I wanted to get food in me before nightfall. They escorted me to a locals restaurant. Knife now in left boot.The chicken and rice was fantastic. Best I've had in Africa. ( Usually chicken here is skin and bone. Hardly any meat.) Not here though, it was massive. Covered in a natural chilli sauce. It was on the money. O and it cost 600 N with a water. Then it was one bottle of beer at their cousins shop,next door to the Guest house. All tucked up in my room by nightfall. Watching black and white Nigeria soap. Hhhmmm
In the morning one of them gave me a wrist band,for good luck. Not to be outdone, the daughter, about 20 ish,came over. " I want to give you a gift "....and she put a watch around my left wrist. How nice.
I am starting look like a model in the Next Catalogue. African Edition. Kneck lace from a tribesmen in Burkina Faso. Knife from the Toureg in Mali. Two wristbands from Nigeria and now a watch. Never mind that lot....where's the oil .:)
I feel very privileged actually. They are all gifts for safe passage. X
Will
PS For security reasons. Very few photos will be taken in Nigeria. In public.I'm not giving anyone an extra opportunity. Hope you understand.
