Thought long and hard about this blog. If I'd written this last night, there would have been a lot of ##@$! In it.
Ok. For the most part the people in general have been intrigued and friendly. Language barrier aside. I get saluted everywhere on the bike. Apparently it is a mark of respect. I don't know if this is an Islamic custom or regional. Most of the countries in this neck of the woods are Islamic. A Muslim told me " they respect and like you are on a bike and alone."
But,I am also seen as the golden goose. Almost nothing has a price on it. It's down to the shop keeper and what he thinks he can get. So I have been well and truly over charged about 70 % of the time. When you don't know anyone and can't speak various versions of Arabic, what can you do ? To counter, I have written down numbers in French and learnt about twenty new words. And this has helped a lot.
Ahhh Rosso !!!! I've read and read about all I could about this challenge. I ended up taking 15 weeks off work, engrossed in it. Getting sponsorship from companies, learning HTML for the blog come website. ( this one ).And reading horror stories about Rosso. The border crossing from Mauritania to Senegal.
So I want to simply put in writing for other ' Overlanders ',my experience.
First off. There are regular fixed Gerndarme Police check points. Where you need to provide your passport or a photocopy. Along with where you are going, coming from and Make of vehicle. Etc.
After I'd had my 'good' African moment yesterday. Sat in the house drinking tea. I rode 40 km or so and came to a check point. The police did the usual with my passport. Then handed me a mobile. I didn't understand a word the guy said. Just heard " ok. Come to me ".
20 km later I arrived at another Gerndarme check point. A smart man approached and said " William "?
He showed me his ID card ' Transit National'.Asked for my passport, Driving Licence and V5 log book. He then got into his car and said come with me. I thought to his office 30 meters away, or similar. But no!!
Warp factor 50 blasting down the road to Rosso. Like something off a film. Him a lot quicker than me,in his Mercedes. But having to slow down for scatter bomb like pot holes. And me flat out, bobing and weaving left side,right side, off the road,on the road. " oooooow sh#t ",I thought.
We came to another Gerndarme check point. Where I put my bike in front of his car and snatched the passport and docs back off him. Yet the Police said " he good man ".
Relived,I followed. But now he had to go at my bikes pace. Not his.Into Rosso port. (The border is a ferry crossing a river. )
The port is like a small army camp. With armed soldiers at the gate and inside. It was a hive of activity, three European cars to one side. I didn't see any non black people though. Everyone queuing in various lines,within the compound.
Mr ' National Transit ', took me to buy a ferry ticket. I was free,but the bike was 5,000 Og.( £10 ish ). I believe this to be the correct price. I was then charged ' tax ' of 2,000 Og. And 4,000 Og for Mauritania Customs. Then the scam really kicked in. I had to buy insurance from the agent in Mauritania for Senegal. And he just happened to be stood next to my bike. Captain Transit shouted him over. Cost for my 125 for 5 days in Senegal ?? ( its just over a 100 £ for a year in uk.)...
Are you ready....5 days insurance, for a country where bikes look like recycled bed frames and have no number plates. 39,500 Og!!!!!! Best part of £100.!!!
I now started to loose my mo jo.I had six of them around me. All talking at the same time. Telling me if I didn't pay,I couldn't get on the ferry. I told them I had insurance for Mauritania and would buy Senegal insurance, once there. It wasn't my job to personally put there kids through private education. Which led to me saying that their system was corrupt. And the people they effect the most,are their own. As it puts people off going to this country. To which Mauritania Customs ( what have they got to do with insurance for Senegal ). Said my country was racist. He got turned down for a Visa,because he was black. I told him there must be 10 million non whites in the UK. And if he wanted in,goto San Gat refugee camp.
Eventually I paid 16,900 for my insurance. Not 39,500. And got 2 months for several countries on route. Not 5 days, Senegal only.
Then Captain Transit pipes up with " I want my commission "!! When he'd told me he worked for the government and it was free,for my safety. I gave him $5 in $1 's. And said enough is enough.
Scam went to phase two now. An innocent engish speaking by stander comes over on que. He is supposedly from The Gambia. He says they are bad people. And we go on the 3 minutes ferry together. He tells me it will cost €80 to get through Senegal Police and Customs. To cover bribes and my bikes Import tax. I know this figure to be 2,500 CFA in the week and 5,000 CFA on weekends. (Passavont )
Cut the story slightly short,as red mist is desending. My bike was held by Senegal Customs till I paid. The ' innocent by stander ',took me to the bank. Now of course they have me over a barrel. Then trys to tell me the taxi man,in his Peugeot 405 that looked like he'd had it crushed already. Wanted €20 for 15 km round trip.I argued over that,but paid about €13. Now back at HQ Scam Control Senegal. Just about to get my passport back,docs and bike. There is a problem. My bike is over 10 years old. I pointed out it had dow 6 or 7,000 km to get here. And was in better shape than anything I'd seen on the road so far. But...guess what ? He wanted ' something '. I was tiered by this point. Annoyed. Agreaved. And said #uck Senegal ...I will go back to Mauritania. We exchanged stares and a few more words.
The outcome was $15 more and I could leave. Baring in mind,I'd already paid €52 for my Visa on line. Which is e mail only for non Africans.
Various currencies in that scamathon. For anyone going to cross at Rosso....DON'T !!! Goto Dialma. But they don't have the technology to accept the new electronic Visas. Nobody seems to know how to avoid Rosso now. And I guess, that's the whole point.
From Gerndarme to ' National Transit '. Mauritania insurance, Customs and everything on the Senegal side. It's one big, all in it together SCAM !!!
So. The two sides to Africa. Everything I'd read was true. And now,at least for the time being, unavoidable.
My budget simply can't take that sort of hit. I've said all along. Whatever this challenge throws at me. I will beat it. Only running out of money or death, will stop me.
Tomorrow I leave Saint Luis for Dakar. To arrange my Visa for Mali. I'm going to The Gambia next,but couldn't find 100% info on getting a Mali Visa in Banjul. Should take 24 hrs to get Mali Visa in Dakar. And it's why I had to extend my bike transit, from 48 hrs to 96. And hopefully get some pics on route for you guys.
All is well. Lost a good bit of weight already. Fried luncheon meat and bread sheds the pounds ladies. :)
Sorry it's not a happy blog. But just sharing my journey as I see it. Really looking forward to The Gambia and being able to speak freely again. In English. :)))))))
Going to the British Embassy. As The SSM at the The Royal Regiment of Gibraltar has e mailed them. Hopefully they might help me with some compo,hexi blocks and puri tabs. Maybe even know where I can get the bike serviced. And cheap bed for 3 or 4 nights.
Not many photos yet. As been doing admin. Cleaning kit. Going to Customs. And other behind the scenes stuff. That isn't too interesting.
Take two minutes and click the Help for Heroes logo. Only £64 from £4,000 now. Let me blaze your name over the internet. Make a difference. Make a donation. :))
Will.
