The Mali Embassy in Dakar were brilliant. They really helped me out. Visa is officially 15,000 CFA. But you only get a receipt for 10,000 CFA. I'm sure you can work that one out.
It's meant to take 48 hrs,but I explained my bike's Pasavont was running out,and they did it that day. Mali is in the middle of a bloody civil war.Well armed Muslims wanting to impose Sharia Law on one side, Government forces on the other. Backed by the French Army,as it was previously a French colony.
I could have gone direct towards Mali,but had always planned to go to The Gambia, to the south. There I could get my bike serviced and fixed if needs be. A previous British colony,they are pro and speak good old English. A major pit stop if you like. Before I push into some very poor and dangerous countries. Where infrastructure is even less.
Visa in passport,I followed the very poor and car crammed coastal road out of Dakar. A city that is chocker block full of people and polutution. And a stulid taxi driver drove into my bike. Trapping my leg and nearly knocking me and the bike over. I'm sure he didn't care I punched his bonnet, as their wasnt a panel on the car that was straight.
I simply wanted to get as my kms under my belt before dark. Leaving Dakar at 4 pm I eventually arrived at Mboor. Not far away,about a 100 kms south.Nowhere to pitch a tent,I reluctantly paid for a cheap Auberge.
Next morning, yesterday, was going to always be another big day. Remember I don't have gps. As Suzuki GB pulled their sponsorship. As I shared a story about an ex Taliban fighter allowed live in the UK. Who was given a free house for him,his four wives and children. Who subsequently recruited and trained British Muslims for acts of terror !! I shared the published story. And lost all Suzuki GB support. Common sense, national security and freedom of speech spring to mind.
So I have had to save the Gps money,£430 and use it to getting me and the bike to Johannesburg. Thank you Suzuki GB for making my life infinitely harder and more dangerous! !! But im sure you're loving the free publicity you are getting.
I left Mboor at 9 am. Through the usual villages and towns. And then through this large region of swamp,come little islands. All connected by the road I was on. Wild cows with big horns, were a common sight.
The temperature and humidity high,I pulled over a number of times to take in water from my Camel Bak.( back slung 3 lt water bladder. )
Twice guys on mopeds stopped to see if I was ok. And to have a chat. And both times in pigeon English. ( A good sign I was nearing The Gambia. )
The road connecting these islands was deserted. But in very good condition. And then. ....and then...the road ended !!! Water...about a mile of it,till the next island!!! Oooops !!! O for GPS.
On que I saw a fisherman. And four locals getting into a boat. A boat about two feet wide and fifteen feet long. 3000 CFA later, we'd got my bike into the boat. As it tipped heavily to the left and right. And off we went to the the next island. Come main land. Check the pics and video.
From the fishing village the other side,the road went from good tarmac,to red clay. This last part was a good 70 km off road and 100 in total.
Stood up on my pegs I was wizzing around the pot holes . The Van Van coping with all I asked of it. Yes,occasionally the rear shocker bottoming out. But it is a road bike. Forget the knobbly front tyre. This bike has just 12 hp and is designed to pop to the local shops. My bike was a star. My upper body felt like id been beasted in the gym. Big style.
I stopped outside a village of huts. And WOW.....kids came from nowhere and everywhere. 24 in total. I was surrounded. One was about 9. And amazingly spoke English. I asked the name of his village. He laughed and said " all one family " !!!!
His parents definitely do not have jobs.
Onwards to the Senegal and The Gambia border. A 200 Gambia $$ bribe and I was in. Then it was 11 km to the ' ferry'. It's the river come sea that you cross. Takes over an hour. My bike was last on. 6 "from back of the boat.ahum....no barrier, just an edge and the sea. With a heard of those cows with horns not two feet away !!!
I watched as they banged into the old Range Rover next to me. I didn't let go of the Van Van for the whole journey. As the heardsman smashed his stick into their heads. Keeping my bike on the ferry and not the sea.
Now in Banjul port. No tail light and no sfreet lights. I pushed on looking for a place to kip. I've sorted a place for 500 $ a night.(10 quid).
Called the British Embassy 34 times,without an answer. Doesn't it make you feel proud ?? I was expecting some prearranged help. Never mind.
Ok. Waffled on. Check the pics. Facebook London to Johannesburg and watch the video. I can't upload vids on mobile Blogger
All good. Servicing the bike and getting some good food into me.
Will
