Ten days stuck waiting, here in Bamako, are nearly over. I'm no mechanic or linguist. But as far as I can tell, my bike luggage frame broke in several places. My rear tyre subsequently getting worn out,by the rear Fender scraping on it. The rear shock absorber seems ok,but there is a noise occasionally from that area. Whilst going over rough ground. And my engine at high revs,makes a tinging noise.
The locals only see and work on Chinese mopeds and speak French. Trying to explain anything, is nigh on impossible for me. Despite taking my pocket note book,with drawings and sentences in French. That I've copied when using wifi.
Today 'Soro',a Toureg tribesmen is meeting me at 11 am. He does speak some English. I'm taking him with me to get my chain adjusted correctly. And engine noise diagnosed properly. It maybe the tappets need a tweek. Also on the 'To Do' list, are getting twenty passport photos. As the ten I brought from the UK, have all been used up. ? I still have ten plus countries to get visa's for.
I wanted to say a massive " thank you ," to all those who have supported and helped me over the past ten days. In times of need you truelly find out the value of those around you.
So to Nick Bayes, a guru of IT, Twitter and administration. " Thank you very much. I look forward to that beer." And Darren Hinch,who I've known since school. "Thank you inchy ". He's always promoting the challenge and being there for me. And finally Simon Hayes,who I was in the army with. He has raised and donated £1,500 to my charity page. Sent over the most expensive tyre,outside of F1,to me here in Mali. Not to mention loads of technical bike support. I don't know how to thank these guys enough. I do know that Tennants are sending Nick a crate of beer. So that can be a start point :))
Outcome of this ? You can not do this alone. You need an address in the UK. And a support team.
Tips . Photocopy your passport 30 times. Have thirty passport photos. Know all currencies exchange rates written down prior to departure. Not your home currency to. But for example. CFA to Ghana GHS.and so on. No.1 tip??? If riding solo,do a course in French. English is worthless here. Worthless.
And remember, your plan is only as good as the information you base it on. Research, research, research. But insure the information is accurate, credible, up to date. And applicable to you. ie. On the complcated subject of African visas. A French passport holders requirements are different to a British passport holders. And so on.
To any 'Overlanders'. Bamako is pretty safe and a nice place to be. Hotel Plage Bamako. On Rue 92. Toroboroboogoo. Is a great place to stay. Whilst you get visas etc. I pay 4,000 cfa a night, to camp 15 meters from the pool. There is wifi and a restaurant, security and helpful, informal staff. I've learnt about forty French words here. They are always keen to teach me.:)
( just stop bring me omelette. When I'm asking for butter. )
You may note also Overlanders. I managed to get the infamously difficult Nigerian visa here. 66,500 cfa. One form. Two photos and 24 hrs. Saves going to Niger and getting it there. Despite it being 42,000 cfa there. You are saving on about 1,000 km of fuel and time. Accommodation and of course, the visa cost for Niger.
My route now is dictated by the need for visas. Angola being the most difficult in Africa. So I'm taking in as many Angolan embassies on the way. So after Burkina Faso. I drop into Ghana. And apply at Accra. Failing that I still have Togo and Benin. Before I get to Nigeria. Where I am most likely to get the Willy Wonka Golden Angola Visa ticket.
The terrain is going to change rapidly now. The Sahel region is behind me. That being desert or sub desert. Fears ?? Well, lots of new wild camping mates!! Crocodiles, hippos and elephants. Replace,sand,sand,bugs and snakes. Looking forward to the challenge. (No ravioli will be left out. That's for sure. )
It's been a very costly and frustrating week. I've seen the true colours of some folk. And been humbled by others. I won't forget the help and support I've received.
Will
